Build a Skateboard From Scrap Acrylic





Introduction: Build a Skateboard From Scrap Acrylic

Trash to Treasure

This is an entry in the
Trash to Treasure

Quick note! I intentionally left off grip tape because I like the way it looks. I even have clear grip tape, but its so much cooler without it. If you make this project and add grip tape thats cool too! It rides just fine without it as you can see in the video. Thanks!

Go check out the quick video to see how easy this skateboard is to build as well as some shots from a camera mounted under the board while I am riding !!

I built an acrylic longboard, because why not? I had some scrap acrylic I couldn't do anything else with. I thought it would be cool to have a see through skateboard, and the final results were really cool. I avoided adding grip tape to keep the completely see through design, but it rides okay without it. Now this will not be a skateboard that will stay pristine, but isn't that the point? This thing will end up scratched up and gnarly, but then it will be even cooler.

Step 1: Cutting the Blank

I came up with this project after I had some leftover 3/4 inch acrylic from my acrylic side table build. (You can check that out here) You can pick this stuff up at your local plastics supply. They are likely to have an offcut they can either give you, or sell on the cheap. You could probably get away with using 1/2 inch acrylic. To cut acrylic on the table saw its best if you use a plastics blade like this one.

  1. The skateboard is roughly 8 3/4 inches wide by 38 inches long. Set your saw blade to 8 3/4 inches, and rip a strip.
  2. Next measure 38 inches and cross cut the strip down to 38 inches.

Step 2: Make a Template & Transfer to Acrylic

I found a long strip of cardboard that was at least half the width of my longboard. I made a half template so my skateboard would be symmetrical. Find a shape that pleases you to make your template. I with a round, sweeping nose that tapers to a round tail.

  1. Measure and draw reference marks on the cardboard template to mark where you want the curve to start and stop. Then draw a curve between the two marks.
  2. I use an adhesive can the draw the curve on the tail.
  3. Connect the curve in the tail and the nose with a long gradual taper.
  4. Cut the template out with a box knife.
  5. Mark the centerline of your board. Line up the template with the centerline and trace the outline.
  6. Flip the template over to the other side and repeat.

Step 3: Cut the Longboard Out & Sand

I used my bandsaw and this 3/16th blade to cut out the shape of the longboard. Just cut slow and stay just outside your lines. Now sand the edges even on a belt sander. It doesn't have to be perfectly smooth yet.

Step 4: Rout a Chamfer & Sand

Rout a 45 degree chamfer on the underside on the board all the way around. I used a palm router and a chamfer bit to do this. Make sure to push against the rotation of the blade. Go slow and focus on keeping the router level on the workpiece.

Now sand the edges first with 600 grit, and then with 1200 grit sand paper until glass like.

Step 5: Mount the Trucks

  1. Figure you want to mount the trucks. I did not measure the distance of the trucks from the ends. I eyeballed, and went with what looked good to me. I did measure from the sides to ensure that the trucks were centered. Mark the hole locations from the top of the board.
  2. Using a drill press is best for this operation. Using a countersink bit drill 4 holes for each set of trucks countersinking into the top of the deck.
  3. Position the trucks on the underside and insert the bolts through the trucks from the top side. Attach the nut and tighten. Don't crank it down, because you don't want to crack the acrylic.
  4. Clean with denatured alcohol, but stay away if you flame polished the edges. (It will crack) This is why I avoid flame polishing.

Step 6: Go Shred



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    2 Questions

    Can you make a instuctables on how to make that Millennium Falcon grip because it's awesome!

    This is an amazing build! How much would you sell a blank without the holes for the trucks? I lack the tools to cut out the board and chamfer the edges. I am looking to replace my deck and this is honestly the coolest route to go. I can polish and drill my own holes.


    This looks great! I voted.

    Too bad it bubbles when heated. It would look great with the tips curved up slightly!

    If you were to heat it just very slightly, you might be able to bend it in a press without any problems. Maybe I'll try doing that. Thanks for the great idea!

    Acrylic? You gotta be kidding. It will scratch badly. I think it will stay in your living room or bed room. You get my vote ;)

    Not scratches, Battle scars!~

    My thought exactly, its looking cool though, will be nice to have it frosted as well..

    If a frosted look is what you're after, a board made from UV resistant epoxy and fiberglass would be MUCH more durable, probably stiffer, and lighter. Actually, epoxy that isn't UV resistant can survive a few years in the sun with only moderate erosion of the surface. At least it can near sea level at 42 degrees north latitude. You might have to try different epoxies to get the appearance you want. Obviously this would be somewhat more expensive.

    Another interesting effect would be to route the edges of the acrylic a little thinner and then make a composite outline with fiberglass, kevlar and/or carbon and epoxy. This would make the board stiffer and stronger, plus any cracks would be much less dangerous.

    That's not true! Acrylic is PMMA (polymethylmethacrylate), and it's very resistant to scratches. You must be thinking of PC (polycarbonate), or Lexan, which is also transparent (and much stronger), but scratches very easily.

    Well, just like the author said,

    all skateboards scratch.

    PMMA does resistant to scratches, but we are talking about jump and smash and grind. I am no player, just fan. Author took my previous comment as pride and not complaint. This is an amazing piece of art, truly, and he got my vote ;)

    Thanks! Sure it will scratch, but so do all skateboards. No biggie.

    After a good amount of scratches you can fill them up with clear or colored resin, should create a pretty cool effect