Introduction: DIY Farmhouse Dining Table

Picture of DIY Farmhouse Dining Table

We've all had that one project that our wives really push us to get done. For me, it was a huge DIY farmhouse dining table. This is something she's wanted for years but we have never actually had space in our dining room for one. You see, she loves having people over, a lot of people! Well, we moved into a new house and finally had space. She let me know right away when we first saw the house the dining room was big enough for her dream table. Here are my plans for the farmhouse dining table I built for her. So, without further ado lets get started.

Step 1: Gathering and Cutting the Materials

Picture of Gathering and Cutting the Materials

This project calls for quite a bit of material, from 2x4s, 4x4s to Kreg screws. I suggest you shop around and look at local stores for the cheapest prices. You may need to get a friend to help you move all the materials to its final location since it is quite a bit of stuff.

Step 2: Building the Base

Picture of Building the Base

Now that all of you materials are in a good location it's time to start building the base of the table. Start by cutting your 4x4 posts for the legs to the hight you desire your table to be. After the legs are cut move on to the bracers for the width of your table. You will use the additional 4x4 post as a runner between the two leg bracers. Once all of your cuts are made measure out and cut your notches on the legs. Be sure to keep them at an even height so your table legs aren't crooked. Take your bracers and measure them out to fit in the leg notches with an almost seamless look. The last part is to cut out your notches in the bracers and the ends of the runner to add stability.

Step 3: Add the Skirting and Top Bracers

Picture of Add the Skirting and Top Bracers

Now that the bottom part is complete it's time to stabilize the top. Measure out your 2x4s to run from leg to leg both length and width. Use wood glue and Kreg screws to secure the skirting to the legs. After the skirting is in place measure out and cut more 2x4s to run between the length of the skirting. Secure them with screws and glue once in place. These bracers will help the base stability and add support for your tabletop.

Step 4: Cutting and Assembling the Top

Picture of Cutting and Assembling the Top

Take your 2x8s and 2x12s and lay them on a flat surface. This is where you will need to move the pieces around to find the woodgrain patterns you like best. After finding the layout you want to cut the pieces to your desired length for the table. When figuring out the length you want your top to be, make sure to include the breadboards that will be added. The part of the top that meets the breadboards needs to be resting on the skirting and end bracers for maximum stability. Once the cuts are made arrange your boards on a flat surface in the desired pattern. Using 1 1/2 inch Kreg screws and wood glue assembles the pieces. You may need to add a few screws on top of the table to ensure it's stability. Fill any pocket holes with wood plugs that are stainable/paintable so they blend in once finished.

Step 5: Adding the Breadboards

Picture of Adding the Breadboards

Now that your long pieces are put together measure out the width of your table. Use this measurement to cut your breadboard length. Attach them to the ends using wood glue and Kreg screws. Once again you may need to use Kreg screws on top as well. Remember to fill in the holes with pocket hole plugs that are stainable/paintable.

Step 6: Sand It Down

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When it comes to wood there's nothing worse than getting a splinter. Start out using a 50 grit sandpaper to remove any large imperfections in the wood as well as leveling out your pocket hole plugs. Once you're satisfied work your way up to 70 grit then finish out with 120 grit to smooth it all out. This will ensure a nice smooth surface for you to paint or stain.

Step 7: Apply Your Paint or Stain

Picture of Apply Your Paint or Stain

Now that everything is assembled and sanded it's time to add some color. Pick your favorite paint or stain that goes with your room and apply according to the company instructions. If you apply a stain to the top apply a polyurethane to it so that any messes are easier to clean up and to make it more resistant to wear and tear.

Step 8: Finish Out the Assembly

Picture of Finish Out the Assembly

It's time for the main event now. At this point, if you haven't already, bring the base to the location you want your table. This will save you from some back pain later due to the weight of the table. After the base is in place bring in your top and set it on the legs, ensuring you put the breadboard joints on the skirting and bracers for stability. Use 2 inch Kreg screws to secure the top to the braces and skirting. You don't have to, but you may want to fill these holes in with plugs as well for the aesthetics.

Step 9: Concluions

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Now it's time to take a step back and admire your work. This table will last you a very long time and for 1/3 of the cost of big box stores plus the custom look you want. After making my first table like this I have already been hired to make 3 others with no changes to the layout or the color. I hope you enjoyed hanging out with me here, and that you learned something from my post. Be sure to leave a comment and let me know what you think.

Comments

runningfool58 (author)2017-12-05

Good step-by-step and photos. Thank you!

No, thank you for the kind words.

tsmith47 (author)2017-12-05

When you say "breadboard" I assume you are talking about the tabletop boards at the ends, that run crosswise, is that right? Are you worried at all about the strength of them, cantilevered out there unsupported? I haven't done anything like that before, and they may very well be just fine, i'm not sure how strong that kind of connection is, that's why i'm asking.

Also, is the pocket screw and glue assembly style, sufficient to avoid any problems with the wood moving with changes in humidity, etc?

Thanks!

The wood hasn't moved at all since I made it. And the breadboards are braced on the top of the skirting and screwed into it with pocket holes to keep it braced from leverage.

ChuckW41 (author)2017-12-05

Nice table. Looks pretty easy. Did the design change? Because the photos of the base in Steps 3 & 9 are different from the base in Step 7.

Also, curious of what the finish is on the top? It appears to be burnt, but could be stained or painted. I recently did a burnt wood finish and it looks awesome. I could see the same being done here w/ a clear coat to keep from spreading the black soot.

For the top, I used the Classic grey Minwax stain. I wiped it on with a terry cloth and then off with a different one. Once the stain was set and dried I put a polly coat on top to keep it protected.

Earlier Comment: Hi, I'm glad you liked it. I did change out the 2x4 stretcher and legs for a 4x4 stretcher/leg set up because I didn't like the way the 2x4 was dwarfed by the 4x4s for the legs. I realized I didn't need the 2x4 angles once I added the 4x4s so I left them off. Additionally, for the table top, I added in a 2x8 between the original 4 pieces to give it more width. This was a personal preference for more people to be seated, since we had the room.

darrellrisley (author)2017-11-28

Nice build. Did you modify your design part way into the build? You started out with 4x4 stretchers then went to 2x4's. Did you find you did not need the added strength and mass of the 4x4's? Also the top support changed. Again was the first top support strength and mass not required?

Hi, I'm glad you liked it. I did change out the 2x4 stretcher and legs for a 4x4 stretcher/leg set up because I didn't like the way the 2x4 was dwarfed by the 4x4s for the legs. I realized I didn't need the 2x4 angles once I added the 4x4s so I left them off. Additionally, for the table top, I added in a 2x8 between the original 4 pieces to give it more width. This was a personal preference for more people to be seated, since we had the room.

ClenseYourPallet (author)2017-11-27

Great looking table. Your profile name is pretty great too. Thanks for sharing

Thanks for the kind words. I love the name and used it for my blog as well, woodworkingfreaks.org. Lol. Seems to be quite popular.

About This Instructable

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Bio: I have always been good with my hands and loved to take apart and reassemble things. I started woodworking as a hobby, and it has ... More »
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