Easy to Make and Use Vise Mounted Bending Tool.





Introduction: Easy to Make and Use Vise Mounted Bending Tool.

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Every maker needs to bend metal sometimes. Usually those are small pieces, so it would feel somewhat wasting to build very big tool for that.

This is my solution for those needs. Its very simple, someone commented that its too simple, "obvious".

But he just didn't think of that, and that's the reason for this instructable.

Personally i think simpliest solutions are the best.

This version uses only one hinge, naturally result would be more sturdier with two.

But for the unexperienced welder, getting two hinges exactly to the same line, could be little difficult. ( little disortion and hinges would stuck )

This instructable doesn't include measures, because those varies too much between different sized vises.

But the idea is very simple, and easy to make.

All projects can be made better. Improvements can be seen from the last step.

I used my homemade vise. You can find instructable about it here.

Video shows the use. (don't let the music bother, i tought that video would little funnier with little overkill music)

Step 1: Bending Thicker Materials..

Bending thicker material requires bigger radius than thin materials. That's obvious.

If you try to bend steel with zero radius, bender turns to cutter.

That's why bender is installed 5mm higher than is the front jaw of the vise.

Rounding the edge of the jaw gives nicer result.

Step 2: Bending Thinner Materials..

Thinner materials can be bend with bigger radius too, but in case that i want smaller radius.

I have simple solution. I place piece of 3mm L-profile to the front jaw.

That gives smaller bending radius. Very simple solution.

Step 3: Materials..

Materials that i used.

80mm long weldable hinge. Costed 3€ at my local hw-store. ( price is for pair)

Piece of axle. Used 16mm, because it fitted to the handle that i made to my manual bar bender.

10mm steel plate. Cut to the same widht with my vise.

Hinges are installed so that the side of the bender wich points inside the vise, is same level.

Hinges are weld around, but the axle where handle connects. is weld on from the ends.

Those are the points where most stress comes when in use.

Welding sides of the axle would unnecessarily bend the sturcture, and possible bend hinge. And it doesn't work after that.

That's it. Simple but usefull tool to every garage or workshop.

Step 4: Improvements.

Version at the beginning of this instructable was the simple version, just one alternative to traditional "Hammering in the vise " - method.

To make bigger bends i use these diy tools. One, Two , Three.

Of course everything can be improved. And first improvement to this, was to make continuous bending radius adjustment. This makes bender more suitable for diffrent thicknesses.

Of course, possibility to lift other jaw 20mm higher, than other helps with other tasks too.

Like when filing thin objects, allows to lift the other jaw and also the workpiece higher to get better view for the line, is

one example.To clamp odd shaped objects.. etc.

Stronger bender, two hinges side by side. Little tricky to get them to the same line, but not difficult.

Video shows the making.


Tuomas Soikkeli

Step 5: Improvements Continued...

Simple improvement... allows to adjust the position of the point that leans against workpiece.

This gives more symmetrical result.

Step 6: Bonus

I had some spare instructable premium membership codes. Feel free to use.



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    2 Tips

    Good tip from the Steelsmith.

    I rather have many different jaws. Ones with the round grooves to be able to mount round objects, different kinds for vertical or horizontal mounting. Ones with right angled grooves, for the L- profile or square shape. This allows tight mounting without leaving marks.

    My jaws are mounted with three screws, so changing won't take long. That's why i think that vise should be made with removable jaws.
    .. So, all depends from the use and the user. That's why there's so many different vises, and ways to use them.

    Rather than rounding a jaw on a vice, make sheet metal inserts whee the metal is bent at how ever sharp the edge of the vise is. The thicker the sheet metal the larger the radius. 2 or 3 of these should suffice for most things and will leave your vice with it's original jaws. I dislike modifying things like vise jaws permanently when a simple insert will do the job, especially on a jig that is clamped in the vice only part of the time.


    Hello! Great design! What is that kind of vise? I didn't know this model.


    This is super useful! I can't wait to try it out. Thanks!

    That's a really good project.
    It's pretty simple, but anyone can make one and adapt from materials and tools that they already have.


    Genius idea! It really is almost too simple, and anyone with a vise could quickly have a simple and quickly made metal brake. I'm definitely making one soon!

    Thanks. I was thinking same too. "Its too simple". That's why i decided to make height adjustment to the front jaw. Then i could unportable adjust suitable thickness to different materials. I'll update this instructable within couple days...

    But, even with the thickness adjustment, this can easily be done with every vise that have removable jaws, its also little more versatile than other vise benders that i have seen.

    I think you are meaning "continuous" adjustment here? "Unportable" means something too heavy to carry.

    Yeah.. Thank you.

    Weird language.
    Continous ( never stop )
    Portable adjustment and Unportable adjustment sounds more obvious to me. :)

    Unportable radius adjustment. I will add details within couple days.

    New Image.jpg

    I llove this DIY project....practical and useful......many thanks, Tuomas Soikkeli

    This is good. Pointers: Bending over toothed and straight edged jaws, this produces indents and nicks in the inner surfaces of the bends - and depending upon the products purpose and use, these nicks can act as stress concentrations and crack initiation points. try to always bend around a tight radius - or a ground profile on a short bit of an angle iron, to eliminate sharp lines in the surface of bends.
    I hate things being off centre.... Mostly because of uneven loading and distortion - the twisting etc.
    The weldable hinge is good, but I would have used TWO of them, to give a balanced loading on the pins, and to make an even bend... It also multiplies your bending capacity by about 4 x.
    Another thing I would look at is redesigning the tool, so that the "bender plate" does the bending from an acute angle and clearance, instead of the hinge body and rotation line... You will get much better and tighter and square bends like that... Kind of like what is in the attached photo.
    This is the difference between "a tool" and "a really good tool".
    Some of my "new designs" are sorting out the structural functions, and the process's and some times it's a case of "adjustment" and or once the essential ideas are functioning - it can be a case of back to the drawing board, and designing the "correct ideas" in and designing the "bugs, oversights, non-intergrations" out. I think this is a case of the essential function and ideas are good, but they could be made to work a LOT better, and if you went back to the drawing board, you could nail it with a genuinely good, easy to make, marketable product.
    And yeah and I do spend a lot of my time designing tooling and industrial machinery....


    Reason to use one hinge in this easy version was, that even unexperienced welder can get one hinge to somewhat right line. But when there's two of them side by side, its more difficult. Little disortion and hinges doesn't move.