Introduction: Wooden Side Table With Hairpin Legs.
I got a nice piece of wych elm from a friend. Its very rare tree here, so i wanted to make something nice from it.
My wife was building herself study/crafting/knitting room, so i decided to make a small side table for her.
Piece of live edge wood. (wych elm)
8mm steel rod
3mm steel plate
Piece of balck alder. ( For the supports and ends, i made the strips that i glued to the grooves from the ripcuts)
Wood oil (linseed oil)
Screws and Wood glue
Step 1: Top Board
I shared the piece two same lenghted pieces.
Straightened both sides of the planks with power handplane, used level to see when surface was straight enough.
Then i straightened one long edge from both planks, leaving second edge on its natural shape.
To keep table straight, and avoid its cracking. I made three grooves to the bottom side.
Here air humidity varies very much between summer and winter, grooves helps when you want to leave heartwood to the top.
Then i made two slots to both boards, to the slots i glued supports. These are made from black alder.
Step 2: Finishing Tabletop..
I closed grooves from the ends of the boards, to get solid area for the screws of the feets.
I could have try to limit the lenght of grooves when cutting them. But, with my table saw, that would have increased possibility for kick back. So, i choosed to avoid kick backs, and made grooves all the way.
Then i traced the shapes of the ends to the pieces of black alder, and attached pieces with dowels and glue.
After glue was dried, i opened the cap between ends and table board. I liked that clearly visible cap gives bigger contrast between different woods.
Finished the board with random orbital sander, started from 120 grit, and ended to 600.
Finally applied two layers of linseed oil.
Step 3: Feets.. Hairpin Legs.
Two bend hairpin legs to the table, i used my diy manual bar bender.
Before welding parts together i measured the thickness of the table. Because i straightened it with hand plane.
It has little variation on the thickness of the ends.
Alltought there was only +-1 mm differences. But if that's not notified, table wobbles in use.
I made two legs 1mm longer than rest of two to fix the difference.
To get nicer, and also easily all feets to identical form. I used plug welds for connecting feets.
I used 8mm rod for the feets, so i drilled three holes for the plug welds with 8.2mm drill, and four holes with 4mm drill for connecting feets to the table.
Step 4: Welding Legs...
To get four similar legs. ( alltought two of them are 1mm longer )
I drawed a template to the piece of 20mm thick board.
When i did bends for the legs, i measured the bending point to the same location in every part. ( those two i made longer in this point ) Then i clamped the rod to my bending setup, in the same way with all four feets. (shorter end is in desired lenght)
Then i had two and two similar parts.
I clamped legs to the jig, placing shorter end to the mark. Then i cutted extra out from the longer end.
Continued, and used third clamp to hold base plate on its place.
Then weld parts together trough the holes with plug welds.
Finally smoothened welds with angle grinder and flap disc. (60grit)
For welding i used stick welder, 2.5mm 73.15 rod and 70A
Step 5: Painting...
I cleaned splatters and crease off with wirebrush and xylene.
Then i painted feets black with matte paint.
After painting is easy to see how nice result using plug welds in this kind work gives.
It needs little more preparation, but it wins time back from the finishing.
It doesn't bend weld objects so easily, so its easy to make many similar and symmetrical parts.
I connected feets to the top with four screws. Yep, i predrilled holes first.
Step 6: Finished...
Thanks for checking this out.
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