Tell us about yourself!
Of course you can do that. But then you have a very complicated circuit for almost the same result. You can also use a FPGA without PLL and sync seperators. But my goal was to keep it as simple, small and cheap as possible.Using the reset signal on the camera boards would be possible. But then you have to solder directly at the camera controller chip, which is not easy.CCTV cameras with sync input are not easy to find in this size. But it would have some advantages. If you have a good source, please tell me.
You can use this instuctable to add a FPV receiver to your Easycap UTV007 video grabber:https://www.instructables.com/id/Easycap-With-58Gh...
I don't know. In general it is working on all devices where normal UVC cameras are working. The galaxy j3 supports USB OTG but it looks like it doesn't support UVC cameras. Anyway, for the UTV007 no UVC support is needed. There is a driver for it in the app. But the USB controller must support isochronous transfer. Not all mobile USB controllers do so (LG X Power is not working). I think you should try it. But there is no guarantee that it's working. If it doesn't work you can get an old smartphone with UVC support on ebay for small money.(e.g. Motorola Moto G, Samsung Galaxy S3, ...)
Lowcost 3d Fpv Camera for A...View Instructable »
OK, let's start from the beginning. First check if the program is running correctly. To do this power your ESP8266 board without any connection to the flight controller. Then search with the laptop or smartphone for the WIFI network "WifiPPM" and connect to it. When you are connected open the address 192.168.4.1 in a web browser. If you can open the website the program is working.Next step is to check the signal. If you have a oscilloscope you can measure the ppm signal on GPIO5. If you don't have an oscilloscope you can measure a frequency of about 25 Hz at GPIO4 (Debug Pin).Check these points, then we can go on with finding the problem.
For your flight controller you need an additional 3,3V voltage regulator which can handle at least 200 mA. Better more. Connect the Voltage regulator input to the 5V output of your flight controller. Connect the 3.3V output of the Voltage regulator to the ESP8266 3.3V inputs like in the picture. Ground to ground. PPM to PPM. Be careful about the current draw if you have additional parts at the 5V output of your board. If the current is too high you can damage it.
Yes, I'm working on a cheap stereoscopic camera system which is small enough for a micro indoor quadcopter. Also I don't want to buy expensive goggles. At the moment I have a working prototype with a raspberry pi and a small screen as 3d goggles. I'm working on an android app to use a smartphone with google cardboard as goggles. When the app is working I will post an instructable.I made this project to get rid of the expensive RC transmitter. So in the end I hope to have a complete stereoscopic indoor 3d fpv quadcopter for small money without expensive additional parts.
Printable Prusa I3 Style Mini 3D Printer! by 3Dtje
Wifi PPM (no App Needed)View Instructable »
Ok, here is the link to the code: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQz2ycUnr3IU1UtV...The program is kept very simple. I changed the Sardauscan firmware code to understand just the basic G-Codes. Only turning the table and turning the lasers on and off is implemented (speed adjustment does not work) but it is enough for scanning with Horus.I made a video of a scan:
Thank you for the great work. But I had problems with the calibration and I wanted to use it in Linux. So I decided to make a firmware that understands the G-Codes of Horus 3d Scanning software from BQ (https://github.com/bqlabs/horus). It works just with two lasers, but it has an auto calibration mode. The scan results are really good and the calibration works just fine. And it works in windows or Linux. If you are interested in the changed firmware I can share it.