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If you have a blade sharpening shop near by they can sell you a balanced blank in some cases. SEARS used to sell blanks like this for exactly this purpose (I have one and have been using it for years). If you are smart you will put different grits on each side.Just be careful as they can easily grab parts.
I have a mill and have cut boards with over the years. Yes a Rip chain is important as it lowers the load on the saw. The easiest way to get on is take a normal chain and grind every second set of teeth so that they only rip.The lowering of load on the saw reduces cut effort along with reducing the wear on the chain bar. Ensure that you flip your bar regularly. Additionally add an extra oiler that drips onto the chain to further reduce bar wear.
Great idea until someone gets clunked ;-) and the tears start.Seriously nicely done.
You can get both 3/4 and with a bit of looking 1" MDF.For a work surface material MDF is actually harder than Plywood and wears better than Melamine Particalboard in shop conditions.As to MDF dust, well it is worse than a lot of other dusts as it is so fine. Just remember beside dust (all) being bad for you, wood dust especially MDF dust is flammable and explosive. Spend the time clean up and don't cut near open flames.Nice write up.
If you can't afford a commercial one, this is very similar to the basic Weller unit for a lot less money. Change filter often. I started with the basic and now use a high end commercial one as I do a lot of soldering.As mentioned in other posts the flux is not health (new fluxes being even worse) and if you still use leaded solder the lead isn't good for you either.Add on a wire stand for better placement over work area so you can get better extraction similar to a brand name.Otherwise Great build.
There are steel studs and related sections that are specifically designed for sound isolation. Easier to use that and cost a few $ more than studs and work better. As to glazing, consider laminated insulated glass (vary thickness in layers along with composition. tempered and plain glass) with a filling of SF6 Gas. Google it and look for the cardinal Glass document for info.
Consider Mythelhydrate instead of the isopropyl as it is a lot cheaper in bulk 4L jug.Which BTW is what most washer fluid is made from in the first place.
Very interesting.The concern about not having a pop-off valve for pressure is very valid. While the hose popping of at 50 PSI is good, don't let this lead you to a false sense of security. 50 PSI is still a lot of pressure and under bad conditions easily exceed this quickly. Most model steam engines are set lower than this.Consider adding a pop off to ensure safety as it could prevent injury. Steam explosions are nothing to be laughed at.
Stop using Ferric Chloride etchant! (A better etching solution.)