ambientvoid

the inspection cam fov really is very narrow. the rear cameras look promising but so far all i've found are wireless ones...

this is interesting, i've heard about this Raspberry Pi stuff occasionally but it all seemed really rather overwhelming so i haven't attempted to do anything with it before. i just googled it though and it might be more simple than i thought so i' going to see if i can find anyone locally who has experience with it :)

so i've been doing a bit more googling and there seems to be fpv monitors which appear to be chunky tablet like screens, obviously they're designed primarily for a wireless connection but does anyone know if they can be set up with a simple wired connection straight from the camera to the monitor? im worried that more wireless stuff means shorter battery life, plus those antennas will probably get in the way in a small enclosed space...

thanks :)

in this instance it'll be a sidecar style platform attached to a longboard skateboard carrying an 18kg to 20kg load spread out as evenly as possible, effectively 2 parallel skateboards with a hinge/pivot where it attaches to the skateboard to let the skateboard lean/steer. my own weight will be spread across the majority of the skateboards length.i've previously used an especially long board with the load on the rear and then a conventional trailer on a shorter board, in both instances i caused damage to the load by accidentally kicking it when i was pushing hard so it seemed worth trying to mount the load on the opposite side of the board to my kicking side. a shorter and slightly wider setup will also be easier to get on public transport then the old really long one when i need to, an...

in this instance it'll be a sidecar style platform attached to a longboard skateboard carrying an 18kg to 20kg load spread out as evenly as possible, effectively 2 parallel skateboards with a hinge/pivot where it attaches to the skateboard to let the skateboard lean/steer. my own weight will be spread across the majority of the skateboards length.i've previously used an especially long board with the load on the rear and then a conventional trailer on a shorter board, in both instances i caused damage to the load by accidentally kicking it when i was pushing hard so it seemed worth trying to mount the load on the opposite side of the board to my kicking side. a shorter and slightly wider setup will also be easier to get on public transport then the old really long one when i need to, and hopefully will turn better with the shorter wheelbase...

thanks, i did try looking at the data sheet but i lack the knowledge to fully comprehend them, your explanation is much easier to follow so i'll purchase a switch and hopefully it'll all work out :)

unfortunately there isn't really anywhere locally to me that sells useful components like this so i sent an email to RS components online shop asking for DPST switch suggestions and they suggested this DPDT switch: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/0351140/ and told me that it would be fine but didn't include any info on how that would work. i tried googling to see if there were examples of DPDT switches wired up as DPST switches but so far i haven't found anything. so could i omit 2 of the contacts and use it as a DPST or would that not work for some reason?

im working under the assumption that i need a 5A switch because that's what i was told by someone more knowledgeable than myself, but how do i work out the Amps that my circuits will be using so i can be sure i'm getting the correct thing? also would say a 10A switch be okay to use on a 5A circuit because i've only been able to find 4A, 10A and 20A switches so far and i would assume that getting a lower rated switch would be the less ideal option...?

thanks for all the ideas :)

there are flashing LEDs? not normal ones with a circuit board of some description attached?

id like to do a scaled down version of this system, would a P-Audio BM2-D750 and one (or two) of these subs (http://store.accusafe.nl/onderdelen/luidsprekers/subwoofer/dayton-audio-sd215a-88-8-dvc-subwoofer-speaker) be compatible with my maxamp20 class D amp (http://store.accusafe.nl/modules/versterkers/maxamp20-met-3-5mm-connector) with an appropriate crossover? how do i choose a crossover, there seems to be a lot of choices on the Blue Aran website much smaller than the chunky looking crossover in your enclosure? what difference would choosing a slightly smaller horn for the driver have on the sound?

i would prefer to, they're nice solid batteries but i measured it and its too thick to fit in the battery space, so far it looks like a flat pack (1 battery thick) of AA batteries is the only thing that will fit. if that doesn't work out im not sure what i'll be able to use instead. iv worked out that i can get my samsung smart phone in the gap with very little extra space, its a shame there doesn't seem to be a hardcase battery in AA battery pack size...thanks for the suggestion though :)

how do i find a properly matched crossover?how do i work out the minimum enclosure volume for 1 or 2 of those subs?why wouldn't you call the output music? am i missing something apart from crossovers?i thought those horns were midrange, they look far too big to be tweeters...i didn't include tweeters because i thought that 4 channels meant 4 speakers, can the amps take the addition of 2 tweeters somewhere?

i did find some horns marked as midrange and mid-high during google searches but they didn't look like something you could mount outside of an enclosure. i also found full range pa music speakers but they were listed as '100v line' (such as this: https://www.cybermarket.co.uk/shop/public-address/horn-speakers/it-400tw-2-way-100v-weatherproof-735260.html?gclid=CjwKEAiA9s_BBRCL3ZKWsfblgS8SJACbST7Doq_16fF3CN_QmLqHCsHeh4qJo1M48eDUL85_LW7GNhoCEIjw_wcB ) and as i need this setup to run off 12v batteries on a trailer i didn't think they would work

i don't drive so i don't have a car battery. The biggest 12v source i have is a bunch of 7ah sla batteries, would one of those be adequate for testing?

how high a capacity pack could I make with this method? and what type of battery (nimh, nicd, lithium etc) do I need for best performance? and is there an instructable or something for how to connect them into a pack?

That sounds like a pretty physically big battery to me, I have a 12v 7.2ah sla battery about the size of a house brick and that's too big to fit. That's why I was asking about power packs because I've seen some pretty small 5000mah and 8500mah packs. The Veho Pebble Explorer for example would be almost perfect if only it had a 12v out. Please point me in the direction of the batteries you're talking about if I'm wrong about the size though...

That's an interesting idea with using mobile batteries and i might try that in the future but for now i think i might try a lower capacity SLA (about 3.5ah) because at least i know they're fairly reliable and can survive a few accidental knocks. Thanks for making me think about SLA's, i wasn't aware i could get such small ones until i looked up the bigger ones again :)

would an RC 12v nimh battery pack like this be suitable: http://www.componentshop.co.uk/12v-2600mah-flat-5x2-aa-nimh-battery-pack.html ?

i took the plunge and ordered some cheap corners. i remembered that i did something similar years ago, making a rubix cube helmet with foamboard panels stuck together with the reinforced corners of a cut up heavy duty cardboard banana box, that survived a night of being chucked around a nightclub so i figure this should do okay despite being a bit more intentionally collapsible...

The box will be regularly moved around. It also needs to be easily able to break apart and be put back together 2 or 3 times a day. It's for a convention that I go to on a packed subway train so it needs to fold flat for the journey there and back (without being too heavy for 1 person to carry) and ideally during breaks in a similarly packed convention hall. However it needs to be rigid enough to survive potential knocks and bumps, and so that the decorative foam sections on the outside line up with as few gaps as possible.For a pvc pipe frame is there something like a 3 way corner connector available? I seem to recall something similar on an old cheap garden marquee frame but I haven't seen them sold separately. I'm not super keen on carrying bundles of zip ties for every time I would ...

The box will be regularly moved around. It also needs to be easily able to break apart and be put back together 2 or 3 times a day. It's for a convention that I go to on a packed subway train so it needs to fold flat for the journey there and back (without being too heavy for 1 person to carry) and ideally during breaks in a similarly packed convention hall. However it needs to be rigid enough to survive potential knocks and bumps, and so that the decorative foam sections on the outside line up with as few gaps as possible.For a pvc pipe frame is there something like a 3 way corner connector available? I seem to recall something similar on an old cheap garden marquee frame but I haven't seen them sold separately. I'm not super keen on carrying bundles of zip ties for every time I would need to cut it apart and zip it back together so alternatively I'm not sure how rigid it would be but if I got the metal corner protectors as used on flight cases, permanently adhered them to the corners of 2 opposing panels and put velcro spots on each of their other faces and the opposite velcro spots on the corners of the rest of the panels do you think that might form a rigid enough cube when pushed together?

could you attach a doodle to illustrate the slot mechanism better?

Carriage bolts do look solid but they're not quick release and I'd be worried about dropping and losing small fastenings outside in the dark. Some kind of quick release fastening is important so that I can quickly assemble and disassemble the board and 'sidecar' parts when travelling to and from events via potentially crowded trains without causing a blockage mid carriage...

the first setup i had was a backpack and i hated it so the following year i stripped it down and bolted it to the board. i considered a conventional trailer but none of my boards are setup in a way that would allow for a truck mounted hitch. i might be wrong but i figure a side mounted setup like this would let me reduce the length of the board and allow for tighter turns without the worry of jack-knifing a trailer, also if i mount it on the heelside instead of the toeside like the guy in the video then i can kick off the opposite side without accidentally hitting it.