Acoustic Levitator

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About: Build your own cutting-edge devices coming directly from UpnaLab. UpnaLab is the future interactive devices lab working with Ultrasonics, electromagnetism, lasers and more.

Use acoustic waves to hold in mid-air samples such as water, ants or tiny electric components. This technology has been previously restricted to a couple of research labs but now you can make it at your home.

If you want more background and details you can check our Open Access papers:

Do not forget to watch the attached video. The first video is the instructions whereas the second one is a fantastic video by Physics Girl explaining the physics behind it.

If you want to build other devices coming directly from the research lab subscribe or get in touch: Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/asiermarzo

Twitter: @AsierMarzo

Step 1: Gather the Components

Kit

Now you can get all the components in this kit: https://www.makerfabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=508

Individual components

We present a list of the necessary components. I have tried to place links for different countries. However, the same parts can be found all around the world, some useful websites are http://www.findchips.com/ http://www.dx.com/ http://www.findchips.com/ http://www.lightinthebox.com/ http://www.findchips.com/

  • 72x 10mm 40kHz transducers. Manorshi provides MSO-P1040H07T at a very good price, minimum order is 500 but they will ship with less at a higher price. Also Ningbo has good ones FBULS1007P-T
  • 1x 3D-printed TinyLev support. (STL file provided in Step 2)

Necessary Tools

  • 3D printer -> you can use an online service
  • Soldering Iron, Tin and Flux.
  • Hot-glue gun
  • Multimeter
  • Cable Peeler
  • Screwdriver and Pliers.
  • Drill
  • Oscilloscope with two probes (optional) -> you can get one for less than 50£ http://amzn.eu/5ey6ty2

Step 2: 3D Print the Base

3D print the base for the levitator. We used a 0.4mm nozzle and brim but no support. It should be possible to print it in one piece. A 0.6mm nozzle also provides good results.

Included in this step, you have the first version (v0 14 x 7.86 x 8.31cm). Or you can use the next version with some reinforcement in the joints (v1 15.6 x 7.86 x 8.54cm).

  • You may also want to print the fantastic stand from Jeff Bearer
  • Or you can also use a full case to make more robust and look awesome. by Jakub_Nagy

Step 3: Clean the Base

You may need to use a file to clean the edges around the levitator and clean the sockets. A Dremel will do the job faster. You may also want to drill a hole in the centre of each side, this will allow to insert a camera, a needle or evacuate liquids.

Step 4: Mark Polarity (Recommended Method)

The easiest way to mark the polarity is to use the Arduino itself. This method does not require an oscilloscope or to poke the transducers inside.

Install the code from this section into the Arduino. Connect one wire to A0 and another wire to GND.

While the Arduino is connected to the PC, run the Serial Plotter (Tools->Serial Plotter) and be sure that the speed is set to 115200.

When a transducer is connected between A0 and GND the signal will do one of the following things:

  • Signal goes down or remains at 0. Then, mark the leg connected to GND.
  • Signal goes up or remains at 1023. Then, Mark the leg connected to A0.
  • It is important to not touch the transducers leg or the wires while doing that or the values will reset.

If it is still not possible to detect the polarity, poke the inside of the transducer with a thin wire and check if the spike goes up or down (like in the obsolete method). Spike up -> mark A0 leg, spike down -> mark GND.

Step 5: Mark Polarity (Obsolete Method)

The transducers have polarity and it is important to glue them in the base oriented with the same polarity. Do not trust the marks made by the manufacturer, they are not reliable at all. The easiest way is to connect a transducer to an oscilloscope and poke the inside with a thin wire. If the spike goes up, mark the leg connected to the positive part of the probe. If the spike goes down, mark the leg connected to ground. You can use two stripes of copper to make this process faster. After all, you will need to mark 72 transducers.

Step 6: Glue the Transducers

Apply a little bit of hot glue on the side of the socket (if you apply glue near the holes for the legs, the legs will be covered in glue when you push the transducers through), push the transducer in and apply some pressure with your fingers to make it lay as flat as possible in the socket.

It is very important that all the marked legs are pointing towards the centre of the device (where the hole is).

Step 7: Wire the Transducers

Wrap the exposed wire in six concentric rings around the legs of the transducers.

Step 8: Solder

Solder the pins to the wires.

Step 9: Prepare 4 Long Wires

Now, we need to make the wires that connect the transducers to the driver board.

2 red wires and 2 black wires. They need to be around 1 meter. In one side there is only the tip exposed. On the other side there are 3 segments exposed, in the video it is shown how this can be done.

The side with 3 segments will go into the transducers rings and the side with only the tip will go into the driver board.

Step 10: Solder Long Wires

Solder the long wires to the transducers. The side with the 3 segments exposed goes into the transducers, one segment for each ring. Each side of the levitator has a black and a red wire. You can use flux and tweezers to facilitate the soldering. Tin the other sides of the wires (the side that only has the tip exposed)

Step 11: Solder Arduino Headers

Solder the headers of the Arduino, backwards if possible.

Step 12: Program the Arduino

Upload the code provided in this step into the Arduino Nano.

Step 13: Glue Arduino and Driver

Glue the Arduino Nano and the Driver into the base. It is important to use the positions and orientations of the figures.

Step 14: Create the DC Supply

You will need to solder the DC female connector to the Switch and leave two wires prepared to supply power to the driver board.

Step 15: Glue DC and Wiring

Glue the DC connector and the switch.

Connect the red wire from the supply into the 12V input of the driver.

Connect the ground from the supply into the middle connector of the driver, also insert a male-female jumper there.

Insert a male-female jumper into the 5V input of the Driver.

Connect the male-female jumpers that we connected to the driver into ground and 5V of the Arduino.

Connect 4 female jumpers from the Arduino (A0,A1,A2,A3) into the inputs of the driver (IN1,IN2,IN3,IN4).

Connect a female-male jumper into ground of the Arduino, this jumper can be connected to D2, D3 or D4 to move the particles up, down or reset them to their original position.

Connect D10 to D11 with a jumper. This is vital for the synchronised emission of the signals.

Step 16: Test the Driver

When powered (always between 6V and 12V) the output signals of the driver (IN1&IN2 or IN3&IN4) should output a 40kHz square wave of twice the voltage provided to the circuit.

Step 17: Test for Shortcuts

Test that there are no shortcuts between the red and black wires of the levitator.

Step 18: Test the Transducers

Connect the levitator to the driver board and switch it on (always provide between 6V and 12V). For testing, 6V will be enough.

You will need two probes with transducers connected (pay attention to connect the marked leg into the positive part of the probe).

Transducers of the same array (side) should be in phase.

You can correct mistakes by cutting the exposed wire and bridging with wires.

Step 19: Test Optimum Resonance

Connecting the wires as shown in the right should provide optimum performance and minimum power consumption. Otherwise, swap the red and black wire.

Step 20: Secure the Wires and Glue the Legs

Apply some hot-glue to glue the wires to the levitator for mechanical support.

You can now glue the legs.

Step 21: Levitating Solids

Provide up to 10V. You can use a tweezer to place the particles. Also a metallic grid or thin fabric (acoustically transparent) will be useful since the particles can be placed there and then introduced into the levitator.

Step 22: Levitating Liquids

It is necessary to adjust the voltage to the type of liquid. Too high and the droplets will pop, too low and they will fall. For water around 9V is enough and for alcohol around 8V.

It is important to place a thin fabric on the bottom to absorb falling droplets, they can damage the transducers.

Place a particle to have a guidance of where to inject the droplets.

A syringe with a bent needle and the tip removed is the best option.

Step 23: BIGLev (optional Device)

If you want a more powerful levitator you can use the 16mm transducers. The process is exactly the same but you will need to 3d-print the levitator base in 2 part and glue them together (one half is attached in this step). This levitator can take up to 20V in the driver board (40Vpp) and levitate solids of up to 6g/cm3 but it is not as easy to use for liquids.

You can use instead 25kHz transducers, they are weaker but would allow to levitate larger objects. For that use the simplified code attached, and modify it to match your frequency.

Step 24: Mid-Lev (Optional Device)

If you want to use 16mm diameter transducers but BIGLev is too big, you can use MidLev. It uses 16mm diameter transducers but it will fit most of the printers.

Step 25: MiniLev (Optional Ultra Low-budget Device)

This solution only requieres an Arduino Nano and two transducers. You can desolder the transducers from a cheap Range Finder HC-SR04.

Install the provided Arduino Code from Step 12. Connect pin D10 to D11. Connect one transducer to A0 and A1; and another transducer to A2 and A3.

Put the transducers opposite to each other to levitate a particle between them, it is easier to place the particle with a metallic grid.

You can use this 3D-printed case designed by IB-as.

You can also use the simplified code by morlok.

Make It Fly! Contest 2017

First Prize in the
Make It Fly! Contest 2017

49 People Made This Project!

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612 Discussions

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at1234

Question 1 day ago

Hi, I am having trouble marking the polarity. Even when I switch the legs, the result is the same. Any ideas as to what I could be doing wrong?

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sither222

Question 5 days ago

my levitator has been working for about a month but just today, i do not hear the usual faint buzzing noise, and the l light on my ardino has started flashing ever few seconds or so, and a light clicking noise can be heard with this flashing from the transdusers, other than that all lights are on, and it will not levitate does anyone know what is going on, I am new to electronics and would grately apreciate any help! thanks! have I shorted a circut?

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compaore.yvan

Question 13 days ago

sorry my arduino doesnt work for the verification of polarity i dont know how to use it can someone give me the different step for using the arduino correctly with my laptop sorry for the poor english i am french

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new_guy

15 days ago

Hi, I made a biglev, but it was not quite right, it's hard to levitate, I use your code but it's almost can't levitate.The bean floated away.Thx

1 reply
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Direct From The Labnew_guy

Reply 13 days ago

have you tried with a small (1 or 2mm) styrofoam sphere. Kindly check the video at the end.

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cwang78

17 days ago

I have successfully built, but the levitated object does not stay still, but slowly moves to the array on one side. What causes this result? Please help me!

1 reply
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Direct From The Labcwang78

Reply 13 days ago

D2, D3 or D4 being connected to ground. You only do that as button to control the movement.

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0hm_mic_0dd

Question 20 days ago

What is the purpose of the 12AWG wire? I don't see it anywhere in the instructions, save for the parts list.

1 answer
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Direct From The Lab0hm_mic_0dd

Answer 13 days ago

It is used for the power distribution to the driver, but thinner wire would do the job better, it just needs to withstand 1A at 10V.

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new_guy

15 days ago

err I mean what the solution thx XD

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mroark07

Question 27 days ago

1) I have a question about wattage and power consumption. I saw from the scientific paper that you get around 0.7 to 1A of current for the TinyLev. Is the current and wattage much different for the BigLev with 16mm transducers?

2) Question for the community at large. Has anyone tried slime or ooblek (cornstarch+water) in their levitator? Though potentially messy, I feel like you could get some interesting results. I am wondering if the high pressure zones surrounding the nodes would break up a large piece of ooblek into the stable nodes.

2 answers
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Direct From The Labmroark07

Answer 27 days ago

BigLev will draw around 1A.

I do not remember levitating any non-newtonian fluid, it may be tricky to put it there but sounds super cool. Good luck.

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JiheneG1

Question 4 weeks ago

our project is to levitate the powders, we want to use this levitator to make crystals we will levitate the powders and then we will attack by an optical fiber to build a crystal but the problem is that I made a tinylavitator but I' m not able to levitate powders just polystyrene, if it is possible to help me ???

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Direct From The LabJiheneG1

Answer 4 weeks ago

How dense is the powder? if the levitator is correctly built (polarity marked correctly), it could levitate 2g/cm3 no problem.

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JiheneG1Direct From The Lab

Reply 4 weeks ago

Our goal for now is to try to levitat sand particles first. I'm not sure about the density but I think it's pretty heavy compared to a little piece of paper with the same dimensions. Is it normal to not be able to levitate sand or is it a problem with the whole system ?
Thank you for your answers.

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monikacz81

6 weeks ago on Step 4

Hello. When I check polarity of my transducers and connect the plus leg to the A0 and the other to the ground using jumper wires I get the signal going up sometimes which mean that the positive leg marked by the manufacturer should be marked and sometimes the signal going down meaning the other leg should be marked. But isnt that correct as the positive leg should be showing a increasing signal and the other leg decreasing which mean I need to connect all the marked by the manyfacturer positive legs together and the other ones together too?

1 reply
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No, the manufacturer markings are random. That is why you need to mark them yourself.