here is a tutorial for something most me need to have, a bifold wallet.
Step 1: YOU WILL NEED
- cutting blade
- wing divider
- double sided tape (for leather)
- spray adhesive (supper 77 by 3M) is what I prefer
- bone folder
- scratching awl
- something heavy ( I use granite squares)
Step 2: Pattern
print out your patter. prefrably on card stock paper this will make it easier to transfer your patter on to the leather.
Step 3: Cutting Out You Pattern
Using your bladed straight edge cut out your pattern. The small part of the pattern can be cut freehand, but use the straight edge as much as possible this will ensure you get straight lines when transferring the patter on to the leather.
Step 4: Transfering the Pattern
first layout your pieces on the leather making sure to avoid any creases, holes, or blemishes. Then using your screeching awl and straight edge scratch around each piece.
Step 5: Cut Out Your Pattern
using your straight edge and blade cut out all the pieces. some of the smaller cuts can be done free hand but use the straight edge it gives you a cleaner cut.
Step 6: Making the Contrasting Liner
For this, I'm using a light brown suede leather. On the flesh side (the inside) of the leather, I spay the super 77 and then glue it to a piece of card stock paper. Not how I positioned the cut piece with the little notch sticking out as to not have card stock behind it. This will be folded over. Using your bone folder fold over the piece. Also using the roller to press the entire thing making sure that there are no air bubbles. Finally cut away all the excess card stock. I use card stock to give the wallet body as well as sturdiness.
Step 7: Linner Construction Continued
once more spray supper 77 on the card stock side and attach the liner to the outer piece of the wallet. Now fold over the top seam of the outside leather. NOTE the spray adhesive should only be applied to the liner with the card stock, not the outside leather. on the top seam apply a strip of the double-sided tape and using the bone folder fold over the seam, using your roller to flatten out the seam, sew along the top. remember to start and stop approximately 1/8 of an inch from each end so that the side sewing matches up for the final result.
Step 8: Creasing Your Edges ( Optional)
this step is optional but I do it because I found it gives the final product a very appealing look.
using your crease at and approximate 1/16 of an inch open crease all the card holders.
Step 9: Branding Optional Also
I brand all the items I make. I have a custom branding stamp that I use to hot stamp the items. I normally cut out the placement on one of the pattern pieces where I want my logo to be at to help me stamp it correctly. I the use an arbor press to press the hot stamp onto the leather.
Step 10: Cards Slot
I'm going to break this one down to several steps in order to simplify the making of the card slots. placing your pattern print out over the cut piece and using your scratch awl mark the card slots position on the piece. add double-sided tape to the edges not exceeding where the top edge of the first card slot will be. peel back a portion of the protective side of the tape. also, place another strip of double sided tape on the bottom of the card slot piece. at this time mark your stitching line at the bottom of the card slot using the wing divider.
Step 11: Card Slots Continued.
place the top card slot in place where the markings are. note the bottom back side of the card slot still has the protective strip on the double sided tape. folding over the bottom of the card slot to remove the protective part of the double sided tape place it and using the roller press firmly in place. sew along the Botton sewing line use the lighter to singe the thread ends to help prevent the sewing from coming undone in the future.
Step 12: Cards Slot Continued.
peel back more of the protective part of the double sided tape enough so that you can place the next card slot. agin before placing the card slot add another strip of tape on the bottom of the card slot. carefully making sure that it is lined up with the first card slot set in pace. remove the protective part of the double sided tape of the Bottom of the card slot setting in place and sewing as well.
Step 13: Card Slots Continued
on the bottom part of the entire card slot holder place the last remains strip of double sided tape. carefully aligning the last card slot to the other tow press it down using the roller. cut away the excess leather on what would be the outside of the wallet and the bottom of the wallet. leaving what would towards the interior of the wallet. turn over the obstructed piece and place double sided tape on the excess pieces of leather. fold over to create a seam using the bone folder and the roller to flatten out the crease. using the wing divider draw your stitch line. sew and the card slot holder is done. repeat the same process for the other one.
Step 14: Construction of the Interior
with both your card slot holders complete now its time to construct the interior of the wallet. adding double sided tape to the Bottom, top and along the outside edge of each of the card slot holders carefully aline them to the the interior piece making sue the the top and side are aligned the bottom can later be trimmed. stitch along the top of the entire piece. only the top!
Step 15: Interior Construction
with the inter piece competed place double sided tape along the sides and bottom of the piece and carefully aline it with the interior bill slot.
Step 16: Final Assembly
with the interior and exterior completed now it's time to put them together. on the exterior piece add double sided tape on the outside flaps this will create the final seams of the wallet. on the back side of the interior piece add double side tape along the outside edges, as for the bottom only add the tape front the edge to the center up to where the card slot holders end leaving the center with out double sided tape. this is need because it allows he wallet to fold freely. remove the protective piece of tape from only one side of the interior piece, carefully fully line up and press using the roller. remover the protective piece from the tape along the flaps of the exterior and fold over to create the final seam. using the wing divider draw your sew lines and sew along the bottom starting where the card slot begin and around the to the edge to the top of the wallet.
Step 17: Final Assembly Continued.
removing the protective side of the tape from the bak side of the interior piece. fold the wallet and aline both edges ( note the wallet must be fold in order for the edges to be alined because the interior is smaller in length than the exterior). repeating the same steps from the previous assembly remove the protective piece from the flaps on the exterior of the wallet and fold over to create the final seam. using the wing divider mark your sew line and sew, remember to only sew up to where the card slots stars leaving the center of the wallet with out sewing.
enjoy your new wallet.