I didn't think this was going to be that involved, but it has been my most difficult and longest build yet (hence why I am submitting this on the last day of the contest). I started out with a feature list that I wanted it to have.
- AC powered
- LED lights
- white "running" lights, always on
- 8 green weapon lights
- Will charge (iterate through each light), then fire (all on)
- Linked up to death star firing sound effect
- Randomly (or iteratively) plays Imperial March, Death Star Motif, Death Star firing sound effect.
- Death Star firing sound will kick off weapon LEDs
- Button to by pass motion sensor
- Motion sensor
- Will kick off sound play
- Button to turn off
- Will only trip every x minutes (time delay between trips)
With that I started collecting supplies.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
- AMT Death Star Model - $18 off ebay
- Paint - $25
- Plastic Cement - $2
- Plastic Putty - $4
- Fiber Optic Cable:
- Two Ultrabright White LEDs - $2
- Eight Ultrabright Green LEDs - $8
- A Green Laser Pointer - $8 off ebay
- Low dropout voltage regulator with on/off control (for laser power conversion) or a relay?!?
- Motion Sensor - $10
- Arduino Starter Pack - $65
- Arduino Wave Shield Pack - $35
- Speaker - Included in pack
- SD Card - Included in pack
- AC Power Cord - Included in pack
- Wire, solder, shrink tubing - $15
- Connectors - $3
- Switch's - Included in pack
- Resistors - $2
- Plastic screws, washers, and lock nuts
- Mac/PC Adruino IDE and USB cable
- #80 Drill bit
- Hand Drill
- Drill and Drill bits
- Good Soldering Iron
- Utility Knife or Exacto Knife
Step 2: Schematic
Based on the Features and the materials that I had I came up with the schematic (this is actually the final there were several iterations along the way).
As you can see there are 8 green LEDs running off the Arduino on digital outs 6 - 9. These are the only digital outs that are available with the Wave Shield installed.
The lasers voltage regulator/control is hooked up to analog 0 or (digital 14). I used a ROHM BA033ST which is a low dropout 3.3v out voltage regulator with a on/off control pin. I was lucky to have access to this component and did not need to worry about finding one, I could not find this on the net so it might be hard getting the part. The National Semiconductor LM1117 will do the same thing but without the built in switch. You could probably accomplish something similar to the ROHM by adding a relay maybe? Whatever you do you just need to bring in 5v and output 3.3v or whatever the laser can handle, then be able to turn the 3.3v output off and on. The built in digital and analog pins and the 3v pin on the arduino do not output enough milliamps (I think) to drive the laser.
Motion Sensor digital read is hooked up to analog 1 (or digital 15). I frickin' love how it looks like the top of R2D2 :)
There are two tactile momentary switches in the system. One that will bypass what is currently happening and start the firing sequence. The second changes modes between motion sensor, auto play and manual play. I got the wiring for the switches from ladyada.net, I can't thank this site enough :)
The last bit are the two white LEDs that are used for all the windows in the Death Star. They just say on, so it was simple.
Step 3: Program
After I soldered up the Wave Shield and wired up the bread board I started writing the program. There were obviously several iterations between the wiring and the program. Don't just try and do everything at once. I started with the 2 white LEDs since this was all new to me. Then added the 8 LEDs (plus one since I did not have the laser yet), then added the motion sensor, finally the buttons.
After a bunch tinkering I came up with the program here. Its fairly well documented, but if you have any questions just ask!
Step 4: Super Laser
I first started with different ways to treat the fiber for the mini beams to recreate to the broken or varying look. I ended up using a utility knife to nick the fiber to create hot spots in it. I also decided to bundle four them together and use clear shrink tube to keep them together. I also decided to add one long piece to each of the bundles that was not nicked up for the main beam. I then would attach the green LED to the bottom of the bundle with more shrink tubing. Make sure you leave plenty of slack on both ends of the long piece to attach the light source. I failed to do this on my first go and had to redo all of them.
- Build Bundles:
- Cut four 3" pieces of fiber per bundle (use utility knife not scissors or wire cutters)
- Cut one long (like 18") piece per bundle
- Use utility knife in a chopping motion to nick up 3" fiber pieces
- Cut a 3" piece of clear 1/16" shrink tubing
- VERY CAREFULLY shrink tubing using whatever (I used a candle) in a close and back and forth movement (You will have to play around with this as the fiber is very sensitive to heat. Its a pain in the butt, but I think it turned out awesome).
- Attach LED:
- Use 1/2" pieces of gradually larger sizes of shrink tubing to add thickness at the base of the bundle
- Solder positive and negative leads to the LEDs
- Use a 2" piece of 3/16" black shrink tube to attach the LED to the bundle.
- Follow the schematic for wiring the bundle with resistors and all.
- I installed a connector so I could easily take the top and bottom halves of the model apart.
- Attach Laser:
- Take the long pieces of fiber coming out of the base of the bundle and shrink tube them together.
- Again build up a large wad of shrink tubing leaving a 1/2" or so sticking out from bottom of wad.
- Use hot glue gun on low heat to attach the 8 fiber bundle to the laser.
- Use a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" black shrink tubing to secure the bundle to the laser.
- Wire the laser into the connector (or voltage regulator).
Step 5: Model Prep and Painting
There was a lot of talk out on the net about how crappy this model is... and it is... crap. But it was the only thing I could use without recreating one from scratch. The seems need to be sealed and putty applied. Glue the 4 pieces together for each half. Paint the inside flat black because you can see through it if you hold it up to the light.
For mounting the Death Star to the tree cut two slots in the arm that acts as the stand. Also trim the plastic nubs off the bottom. This arm will be what mounts to the tree with zipties. Glue the arm to the bottom half of the model.
Then paint the outside to your liking. I used two cans of Model Masters 1930 Flat Gull Gray for the base. I don't have an airbrush, so I hand painted all the panels. I used two colors Model Masters Dark Gull Gray and Light Sea Gray. This step is long, but if you enjoy it, its fun in its own right.
Step 6: Prepare Model for Mounting Components
For Mounting of the components I decided to either hot glue or use nylon screws and nuts to hold things in. While probably not the best solutions its the best that I came up with based on time, knowledge and what I had available. I had thought about using a circuit board for the weapon, but it didn't work out.
For things with screws (Arduino board and Speaker) attach them to the components then set them in the model and glue them down. I used model cement and that didn't seem to stick very well, so try hot glue instead.
Drill 8, 1/8" holes around the superlaser keeping in mind the plastic structure on the back. Drill holes for the motion sensor facing the front and down, widen with a dremel. Drill hole and dremel spot for the Power plug. Use 1/8" drill bit and drill two holes for the buttons on back facing down.
Use a small hand drill (I picked one along with the bits up at my local hobby shop) and the #80 drill bit to drill all the holes for the white light fiber optic. I drilled 192 (3 bundles of the 64 strand fiber) holes. I should have done more, but didn't order enough fiber.
Touch up any paint that you destroyed in the process.
Step 7: Solder the Rest Together
Solder the motion sensor, buttons, white LEDs, and connectors to the Arduino Wave Shield. This is the last step before installing everything. You can look at my pics but I am sure there are better ways to do this, but again, this was all very new to me... and it works :)
Step 8: Install Components
Install the superlaser by inserting the fibers into the holes previously drilled. Hot glue each segment in place. Take a long piece of 3/32" clear shrink tube and bundle to long fibers together for the main beam. Again carefully shrink the tubing. It would probably be best to add some kind of stiffener to keep the beam straight, but I didn't think of that until after the fact.
Install all the other components. Use the screws and nuts that were glued in a previous step. Hot glue the motion sensor and buttons in place.
Step 9: Install Running Lights
I did this step before installing all the components. Please for the love of all things good... please don't do that. It was extremely aggravating as they kept pulling out after they were glued and I had to worry about touching them with the hot glue gun.
Insert the fibers into the holes that you drilled earlier. Glue with white glue. Don't use super glue or plastic cement as they make it melt or make it fragile. Epoxy might work better, but didn't try. If you need to hold them in place use a small piece of masking tape on the outside of the model to hold it (make them look like little flags). After the glue dries cut the fibers with an exacto blade.
Now attach to the white LEDs with more black shrink tubing.
Step 10: Put Halves Together and Install on Tree
Put the two halves of the model together. Attach to the tree with zip ties. Plug power brick into the wall. I made sure one of the strands of lights ended by the top of the tree.
Sit back and enjoy the fact that you are a HUGE GEEK and you are now the envy of all star wars geeks world wide.
Grand Prize in the
Homemade Holidays Contest