The most popular table saw on Amazon (as of June 15) is the Dewalt DW series. It's a compact, great contractors table saw. But it really needs an outfeed table to catch the cut lumber.
I wanted an outfeed table which:
- attached to the table
- was really easy to put on and take off
- folded down flat for simple storage when not needed.
- was very inexpensive.
- I didn't want to have to get expensive metal parts.
I saw a lot of different plans for out-feed tables that were solid cabinets, but they were too large for me.
- one sheet of 24" x 48" ply 1/2" thick. This is a typical size and cost me $10 at my local Ace Hardware. Must be 1/2" thick!
- wood glue for sandwiching wood strips together
- Some 1" wood screws to attach the wooden hooks to the sides.
- 2x 2.5" bolts to "loose secure" the table top to the sides.
You will need:
- a bandsaw or jigsaw for the rounded cuts (mandatory)
- a table saw for the rip and cross cuts (mandatory)
- a few clamps to join the pieces together (mandatory)
- a chisel (optional)
- a router to make channels along the top for a cross cut sled to come out of the miter tracks and onto the table (optional).
You can download the PDF plans for this table saw here: Dewalt Table Saw Outfeed Table Plans Included is the sourcefile in Google Sketchup format if you want to alter the plans.
Step 1: Cut the Pieces
The first step is to download the plans and print out the two colored plans. It includes all dimensions for the three main parts. The two sides and table top should be able to all be cut from one 24 x 48" piece of 1/2" ply if you don't make any mistakes.
Start by making the outside cuts.
The green pieces are to mount underneath the table top. Cut them out
The yellow pieces will form the top hook. You will first glue them together and then glue them on to the side.
The purple pieces will form the bottom hook. You will first glue them together, cut the hook, and then glue them on to the side.
On the main side there is a groove at the top which is 1" wide by 1/2" deep. I cut this with a handsaw and a chisel. You could cut it with a jigsaw and chisel. Also on the main side is a big swinging arc. I cut the arc on a bandsaw, but you could also use a jigsaw. The shape of the arc does not need to be very accurate, but you do need to use the waste wood for the purple and green pieces.
Do NOT yet cut the hook in the main side. You will cut the hook once the outer wood is glued on.
Step 2: Glue the Pieces
Here you can see the side piece all cut out (without the hook yet cut).
Now you need to glue the 2 yellow pieces together. Separately glue the 3 pink pieces together. Side by side.
Try to line them up neatly.
To glue them, cover either side with glue. I use an old credit card to spread the glue neatly.
Then clamp it down really tight and use a wet cloth to swipe off the wet glue that oozes out. Leave it for at least 24 to dry, preferably 48 hours.
Step 3: Cut and Attach the Hooks
Do the top hook
Now draw the hook on the top of each side. Draw the hook shape in pencil onto the outside face of each side.
Now take the two yellow piece block which you glued together previously and glue that to the inside face of each side, lining it up to the top. These will form the hook which attaches to the top black bar of the Dewalt table saw. The hook will be 1.5" wide when completed and will provide a nice stable hook which shouldn't flop around. Glue them on, clamp them again like in the previous step and leave it to dry 24-48 hours before cutting the top hook.
Once the glue has dried you can put it into your band saw and cut the shape of the hook (or jigsaw). The bar you're hanging it on is exactly 1" wide, so cut it carefully and ensure it sits snugly and firmly onto the bar sitting flush down at the top of the hook.
TAKE NOTE: the height from the inside top of the hook to the upper edge that the table will sit on must be 2 13/16". See the the plan. This ensures that the table top will sit exactly 1/8" lower than the table saw top. You need the outfeed table top to be slightly lower than the table saw top so that your lumber will slide off the table saw and drop down slightly onto your outfeed table.
The bottom hook
The bottom hook fits against the vertical black bar on the back side of the table saw. This black bar is also exactly 1". So you've got a 1.5" wide block. Cut the 1" hook into this per the pictures with your jigsaw or bandsaw.
This bottom hook will be attached to the side such that the table top sits level. To do this, grab a level, and rest it on top of your side. With a clamp loosely holding the bottom hook onto the side you can adjust it so that the bottom hook rests on the black bar while the top is perfectly level. Once you've found the right spot, clamp it tight and then drill a few wood screws through the side and into your hook. Be sure to predrill the holes so you don't split the hook.
The sides with hooks are complete.
Step 4: Assemble the Top
I made my top 24" wide x 30" long. This means I can push stock <60" (5') long onto the table before it topples off the back. The table is pretty solid but wouldn't hold a LOT of weight before toppling the entire table saw over with leverage. Use your judgement.
Mount the two sides on the table saw.
Rest the top onto the two sides.
Get under neath and mark where the rails need to sit. Then flip it over and screw the rails onto the top.
I drilled holes and put two long bolts through the rails and sides to ensure that the top stays on the sides and doesn't flip up if a heavy piece of lumber is hanging off the back of the table.
Once you've attached the rails, you're mostly done.
As you can see I routed two long grooves into the top of the table so that my cross cut sled can slide out of the miter tracks and onto my outfeed table without being obstructed.
You're done. Here is a final video of my outfeed table in action: