Get those saws out of the tool box and on the wall to save edges and your fingers!!!
Step 1: Saw Rack
This rack is made from scrap, if all the wood is bought new it might run you $5.00 at most. To begin with, you will need to cut the pieces required, which is (1) one end piece and the number of lock blocks to suit the number of saws you will be hanging up. The end piece is cut from a 2x4 and is 1 inch wide by 3 1/2 inches high by 1 1/2 inch thick. Each lock piece is cut from scrap 2x4, and is as the drawing shows 1 1/2" wide at the top and 2 1/8" wide at the bottom. This creates a roughly 15 degree angle on the left side of each lock piece. It is this angle that allows the roller (dowel) to lock the saw blade into place.
I'm making a small 4 saw block here, so the picture will show the pieces as required.
1 end piece
4 lock pieces
1 front board (1x4 used here, but thin plywood will work as well)
1 rear board (1x4 used here, but thin plywood will work as well)
The length of boards to use is determined by the total width of all the pieces, plus a 3/8" space for each saw position in the rack. For the 4-saw rack, the front and back boards will be 9 1/2" long.
Here is how you begin. On the FRONT board place the end piece on the left end, and secure with glue and an air nailer or screws. Now, place the first lock block in place (to the right of the end piece) (The view above is with the top of the rack towards the camera) The sloped side is towards the end piece so as to create a narrowing channel towards what will be the BOTTOM of the rack. Use the edge of the front board as a square to line up the pieces to the bottom (or in the photo, the top of the board). It is important that the gap between end piece and lock block at the bottom of the rack be just 3/8" so the dowel will not fall out when saw is removed! Secure the block with glue and fasteners of choice.
Now add the remaining blocks, keeping the 3/8" saw space, between the sloped side of the next lock block and the square edge of the last lock block. (which serves as the end piece for each following block). In this manner you continue until all the pieces are secured.
Now cut dowels for lock rollers (from any dowel 1/2" diameter to 3/4") one for each saw position.
Glue and secure the back plate and you're ready for the next step.
Once the saw rack is together, use the saw you want to store in that position of the saw rack, to cut a slot in the front board just parallel and even to the straight face of the end block. Now when the saw is placed in the rack, the left side of the saw blade will rub against the straight side of the end block and create the binding surface to lock the saw in position. The sloped surface inside the block will always be to the right of the blade (this is where the roller will roll and lock the blade in place. (see fig 2 above)
Now stain all surfaces of the rack, and the rollers to insure a good look in your shop and to protect the surfaces. I also wax the rollers with bees wax to insure they release easily from the other surfaces.
To hang the rack, I drilled two holes in the top of the ends of the rack at 45 degrees and used screws to secure it to the wall. I then dropped one roller in each space in the top of the rack. Now to insert your saw just put the top edge of the saw in the bottom of the slot and lift it up. As the saw moves up and into the rack, the roller will slide along. When you are happy with the location of your saw just lower it slightly and roller will jam on the slope and bind the saw in place.
To remove a saw, just lift it slightly to unlock the roller and pull it out of the rack towards you, it will come easily. Some folks like to hang their saw with the teeth facing out, and others like to have the teeth to the wall, whatever you like the saw rack will hold your saws just fine.
Grand Prize in the
Workshop Hacks Challenge 2017