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17Instructables112,119Views124CommentsMilwaukeeJoined December 29th, 2015
Avid 3D printer builder, currently completing my 3rd printer design. If you like what you see and maybe even implement what provide, consider supporting me on Patreon.com: https://www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech follow me on twitter at @Core3D_tech

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller5 days ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I use Marling firmware. In step 9, I describe where to find the firmware and what board to use for the KFB. As for the actual configuration, it will differ from setup to setup. So depending on what your printer looks like and what functions it uses, your setup will differ. For the C3Dt/c printer I've uploaded the configuration.h file in step 1 (https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantilever-20-C3Dtc/). In that file you can look at the things I had to change for that specific printer (search for c3dt in the configuration.h). It will look very different from one of my other printers running Marlin on KFB2.0

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller9 days ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    check out this guys project https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-RGB-LE...He uses twelve volts but even with 5 you may go the same direction with the mosfets as your LED strip might pull more power then the KFB can provide. The challenge is finding PWM enables pins that are available. the following pins on RAMPS are PWM enabled 2,4,5,6,7,11,12,13,44,45 and 46.Some of these are simply missing from KFB2.0. here are some candidates:D2 (signal pin on MAX_X Endstop)D44 (on AUX-2)D46 (pins under Z Stepper base)Hope this helps. Some of the missing pins on KFB certainly don't make this easier.

    At this point you may know as much as I do. I've never connected RGB LEDS. In the configuration.h there's a section on RGB LEDS with 3 pins assigned (may need redefine for KFB) so the software is ready. KFB2.0 has the 5V fan power output as well so that could be the + your lookingThe wiring I'm a bit fuzzy on. I would have to buy the strip and try it myself. Might make a nice instructable. Budget and time are a bit constrained as I'm preparing for the Milwaukee Makerfaire.//#define RGB_LED//#define RGBW_LED#if ENABLED(RGB_LED) || ENABLED(RGBW_LED) #define RGB_LED_R_PIN 34 #define RGB_LED_G_PIN 43 #define RGB_LED_B_PIN 35 #define RGB_LED_W_PIN -1#endif// Support for Adafruit Neopixel LED driver//#define NEOPIXEL_LED#if ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED) #define NEOPIXEL_TYPE NEO_GRBW // NEO_GR...

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    At this point you may know as much as I do. I've never connected RGB LEDS. In the configuration.h there's a section on RGB LEDS with 3 pins assigned (may need redefine for KFB) so the software is ready. KFB2.0 has the 5V fan power output as well so that could be the + your lookingThe wiring I'm a bit fuzzy on. I would have to buy the strip and try it myself. Might make a nice instructable. Budget and time are a bit constrained as I'm preparing for the Milwaukee Makerfaire.//#define RGB_LED//#define RGBW_LED#if ENABLED(RGB_LED) || ENABLED(RGBW_LED) #define RGB_LED_R_PIN 34 #define RGB_LED_G_PIN 43 #define RGB_LED_B_PIN 35 #define RGB_LED_W_PIN -1#endif// Support for Adafruit Neopixel LED driver//#define NEOPIXEL_LED#if ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED) #define NEOPIXEL_TYPE NEO_GRBW // NEO_GRBW / NEO_GRB - four/three channel driver type (defined in Adafruit_NeoPixel.h) #define NEOPIXEL_PIN 4 // LED driving pin on motherboard 4 => D4 (EXP2-5 on Printrboard) / 30 => PC7 (EXP3-13 on Rumba) #define NEOPIXEL_PIXELS 30 // Number of LEDs in the strip #define NEOPIXEL_IS_SEQUENTIAL // Sequential display for temperature change - LED by LED. Disable to change all LEDs at once. #define NEOPIXEL_BRIGHTNESS 127 // Initial brightness (0-255) //#define NEOPIXEL_STARTUP_TEST // Cycle through colors at startup#endif/** * Printer Event LEDs * * During printing, the LEDs will reflect the printer status: * * - Gradually change from blue to violet as the heated bed gets to target temp * - Gradually change from violet to red as the hotend gets to temperature * - Change to white to illuminate work surface * - Change to green once print has finished * - Turn off after the print has finished and the user has pushed a button */#if ENABLED(BLINKM) || ENABLED(RGB_LED) || ENABLED(RGBW_LED) || ENABLED(PCA9632) || ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED) #define PRINTER_EVENT_LEDS#endif

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller10 days ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    If you're using the micro switch with only 2 wires connected to the outside pins (com/nc) it doesn't matter as all you're doing is breaking/closing the circuit. connect them to the board at GND and pin (d40/d42) (do not connect to VCC). once connected, you can test them if your endstops show as triggered when you haven't depressed them, you'll need to go in marlin (configuration.h) and flip the #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.from true to false (or vice versa)

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller15 days ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    My bad, the initial video I posted used 5 Volt LEDs. For 12 Volts LEDs (which I assume yours are) It will involve a bit more as none of the signal pins get close to that. Like I said, I simply use a manual switch between my LED strips and PSU. If you want to control it with g-codes you you check out this video by Tom Sanladerer. I think he does exactly what you are looking for. The "Spare pin" he talks about in the video could still be the 57 pin, the actual power will be drawn from the PSU and the signal from ramps via mosfet will operate the on/off/dim capabilitieshttps://youtu.be/fb3hrjEiE3s

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  • Core3D's instructable Taking Steady Lapse Video of Your 3D Prints's weekly stats: 17 days ago
    • Taking Steady Lapse Video of Your 3D Prints
      568 views
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  • Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 Case and Rotating Mount

    Great. I just did an instructable on OctoLapse. It makes for really cool timelapse videos with OctoPrint https://www.instructables.com/id/Taking-Steady-Lapse-Video-of-Your-3D-Prints/

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller18 days ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    To have them software turned on/off? My LED strips are connected to my PSU and I use a manual switch to turn them on/off. If you want controlled by g-code; in The following video someone connected LEDs to RAMPS. D57 on RAMPS mentioned in the video is A3 on the KFB2.0 (see image attached)

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  • Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 Case and Rotating Mount

    That is correct. As for the external power I recommend you get a 3Amp power cord (with on/offf switch). This is my setup. I have my Rapsberry Pi hanging (via magnets) on my cabinet. The Raspberry Pi itself has wifi built-in so that's how you connect to it via browser (or other client). Octoprint allows you to create multiple printer profiles, so I can use my one Raspbarry pi to control 3 printers (in this case one at a time, although I've read about multiple printers at once).

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    • Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 Case and Rotating Mount
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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c20 days ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    I've uploaded the configuration.h file into step one of this instructable. I went ahead and added //c3dt/c to every change I made so simply search for c3dt in something like notepad++. Do not blindly copy this configuration.h into your set of marlin files. They tend to make changes between minor versions that could cause issues. I hope this helps and I hope you'll hop over to https://www.patreon.com/core3d_tech Even a dollar a month makes a difference.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c22 days ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Glad you're making progess. Love to see the end result. There are a number of reasons why your display may not be working right off the bat. -If it's the 12864 LCD is the DOGLCD uncommented in configuration.h //#define ULTRA_LCD // Character based#define DOGLCD // Full graphics display-in configuration.h uncomment#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLERcomment (//) //#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER-Are the ables properly connected exp1 to exp1 and exp2 to exp2-There have been some reports that the connectors for cables to the board are wrongly alligned in which case they ended up cutting off the knobbies from their cables and turning them around. I personally have never witnessed that and am skeptical about it.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c23 days ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Yes! I believe that one will do the trick. Here's another one I think should work https://www.fankhauser.me/products/aluminum-y-carriage-for-tevo-tarantula

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller27 days ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I have not tried a BLTouch myself. The discussions I've had on it with Adam Black some time ago seemed go in the same direction as your configuration. Use pin 57 and wire as in the images attached. Is your wiring the same?

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c6 weeks ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    in configuration.h set the board to either #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_LSee step 9 in https://www.instructables.com/id/Wiring-the-KFB20-...Also make sure in the Arduino software you have the proper board and chip selectedHope this helps

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  • Core3D's entry 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c is a winner in the Make it Move Contest contest 6 weeks ago
  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c7 weeks ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Anything is possible, but it wasn't the intention of the design. The design at it's core has the universal power unit. It is exactly the same height at 1020 and supports the Y Axis. If you choose to go with 2040 (I'm guessing there's hundreds of designs specifically for 2040 out there) you will need to rearrange things with spacers. But more than just spacers.First challenge: The backbone (The 1020) that connects the Z-Axis to the Y-Axis, matches the power unit. If you use 2040, you will not reach the height of the power unit (and thus it could not support the Y axis). You would have to lift the 2040 in the back (corner bracket to Z-axis could possible support that plus some supports below the 2040)Second challenge: 2020 is about 5.4mm lower than 1010 profile. The Bed rests on top of th...

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    Anything is possible, but it wasn't the intention of the design. The design at it's core has the universal power unit. It is exactly the same height at 1020 and supports the Y Axis. If you choose to go with 2040 (I'm guessing there's hundreds of designs specifically for 2040 out there) you will need to rearrange things with spacers. But more than just spacers.First challenge: The backbone (The 1020) that connects the Z-Axis to the Y-Axis, matches the power unit. If you use 2040, you will not reach the height of the power unit (and thus it could not support the Y axis). You would have to lift the 2040 in the back (corner bracket to Z-axis could possible support that plus some supports below the 2040)Second challenge: 2020 is about 5.4mm lower than 1010 profile. The Bed rests on top of the Y Axis. and hovers over the the electronics case at a distance of about 3mm. That won't work with 2020 as the bed would no longer fit over the power unit. You would either have to heighten the bed by adding some bracket between Linear slider and bed frame (the most precarious part of this printer, as you're balancing a 200x200 bed on top of a 40x40mm slider block.Third challenge: All the connectors are off. The connectors to the power unit and Y-axis would have to be redesigned as the distance between power units screws and 2020 would be off by 2.7mm. The Electronics case which sits positioned over the exhaust of the power unit would have it's back screw hole off by 2.7mm.Fourth challange: The hot-end bracket that holds the hot-end and and probe was designed to to fit 1010 (where the connector meets the belt grip (that runs inside the rail) will be of by 2.7mm (doesn't sound like much but when you look at a 6mm gap, it's a lot). Same to be said for the Y-Axis slider bracket as it would be off from it's belt grip as well. I"m sure there will be a 4th and 5th and possibly more challenges as you look even closer. The C3dt/c was designed specifically for and around 1010 and the universal power unit. I created 2020 versions of most actuators (along with the cad files) so you can get creative and design whatever 3D printer (or CNC/LAser cutter) you want to make. Can you make it work with the C3dt/c? Sure anything is possible and the best of luck to you. Was it meant to be? No. I'm currently in the process of designing a printer, using the same actuators but specifically around the 2020 extrusion. The challenge I have with that one, is that it tends to look like any other 2020/ printer there.

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  • Core3D's entry 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c is a finalist in the Make it Move Contest contest 7 weeks ago
  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    Three differences from mine (below). You seem to not have enabled stealthchop and it looks like you're using stallguard for X and Y The one thing that looks off is; you have set your micro steps to 256, The RAMPS doesn't go that high. Set it to 16 or leave it at what it was before (this applies to the RAMPS steps/unit calculation) #define X_MICROSTEPS 16 // 0..256The #define INTERPOLATE true will bump that up to 256 (without effecting the steps per unit calculation).Here's my output:Send: M122XYZE0Enabled false false false falseSet current 800 800 750 800RMS current 795 795 734 795MAX current 1121 1121 1035 1121Run current 25/31 25/31 23/31 25/31Hold current 12/31 12/31 11/31 12/31CS actual 12/31 12/31 11/31 12/31PWM scale 0 0 0 0vsense 1=.18 1=.18 1=.18 1=.18stealthChop t...

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    Three differences from mine (below). You seem to not have enabled stealthchop and it looks like you're using stallguard for X and Y The one thing that looks off is; you have set your micro steps to 256, The RAMPS doesn't go that high. Set it to 16 or leave it at what it was before (this applies to the RAMPS steps/unit calculation) #define X_MICROSTEPS 16 // 0..256The #define INTERPOLATE true will bump that up to 256 (without effecting the steps per unit calculation).Here's my output:Send: M122XYZE0Enabled false false false falseSet current 800 800 750 800RMS current 795 795 734 795MAX current 1121 1121 1035 1121Run current 25/31 25/31 23/31 25/31Hold current 12/31 12/31 11/31 12/31CS actual 12/31 12/31 11/31 12/31PWM scale 0 0 0 0vsense 1=.18 1=.18 1=.18 1=.18stealthChop true true true true msteps 16 16 16 16Recv: tstep1048575104857510485751048575Recv: pwmRecv: threshold0000Recv: [mm/s]----Recv: OT prewarnfalsefalsefalsefalseRecv: OT prewarn hasRecv: been triggeredfalsefalsefalsefalseRecv: off time5555Recv: blank time24242424Recv: hysterisisRecv: -end2222Recv: -start3333Recv: Stallguard thrs0000Recv: DRVSTATUSXYZE0Recv: stallguardRecv: sg_result0000Recv: fsactiveRecv: ststXXXXRecv: olbRecv: olaRecv: s2gbRecv: s2gaRecv: otpwRecv: otRecv: Driver registers:X = 0x80:0C:00:00Recv: Y = 0x80:0C:00:00Recv: Z = 0x80:0B:00:00Recv: E0 = 0x80:0C:00:00

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    The reason the design is how it is, is because I built around the power unit which is 50mm high. Going with any other dimension than 1010 or at best 25x25mm/25x50mm will basically negate the idea behind the design. If you want to go with the 2020 (openbuilds) materials, i have to believe there are designs out there for that. I did redesign the linear axis for 2020/2040 so you can reuse those as part of your design, the the printer as a whole is a different story though

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Upgrading 3D Printer From 12 Volt to 24 Volt2 months ago
    Upgrading 3D Printer From 12 Volt to 24 Volt

    I'm no electronics major so I won't argue. I watched this video on the driver/stepper performance on 12V vs 24V which showed how the steppers performed overall better on 24V

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.42 months ago
    Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

    Simply google, running two steppers on 1 axis and you'll find many discussions about doing this either in parallel (need strong enough driver) or running in series (loosing some power in the motors).The Z-axis on a RAMPS shield already exposes 2 sets of outputs of the Z-Axis (many of the reprap type printers use 2 steppers, one on each side of the printer). They are wired in parallel. technically, you can do the same with the other axis, simply run all wires parallel (the stepper driver gets the signals and passes power on to the 4 wires to the stepper). The bigger question becomes capacity. Running 2 1A on most stepper drivers will work but when you talk about 2A steppers, you'll need to look into more robust stepper drivers that can handle higher Amperage.

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    Thank you. As far as I can tell there are NO issues with the SD card in combination of this wiring. I print both SD card and Octo Print and have seen no issues printing from SD. Check out the tip from jfpayeur on the elongated pins he uses to "extend" the LCD adapter.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Some of the parts (the linear rails) have been adapted for 2020. You can check their respective instructables for the STL files. https://www.instructables.com/id/Linear-Screw-Doub... (uses 2040) and https://www.instructables.com/id/Generic-Linear-Ac... The printer itself however is designed specifically around the Power unit which is 1020 high (you could get away with 2525). The difference between 1010 and 2525 is only 0.4mm so most items will be close to fitting). WIth a little elbow grease items, might fit.Going with 2020 will not work for this design. I'm pretty sure there are plenty of 2020 designs out there.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    In height maybe but in the X and Y direction I would strongly recommend against it. You can make the linear rails as long as you like but in the end the entire bed carriage rests on a 20x20mm rail block. 200x200 is already stretching it as far as Cantilever printers are concerned. My next design will be based on all the same components as this printer but with an arching frame, supporting any size bed/volume.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Printed parts available at https://www.ebay.com/usr/core3d.tech

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  • Core3D commented on jcbuchli's instructable Cedar Strip Kayak2 months ago
    Cedar Strip Kayak

    Stunning. That is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship and your instructions are great too. Makes me wanna make one

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    3D printed parts now available on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/263704820777

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    3D printed parts now available on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/263704820777

    Now available on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/263704820777

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c3 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Thx, unless I connect OctoPrint (on a Raspberry Pi) to the printer, I really don't connect to it. The printer reads the gcode from either an SD card (that is inserted in the LCD unit), or I upload it to my OctoPrint server.For slicing the models I use either Slir3r (1.3.0 Dev) or Cura 2.7.0 which are both free slicers.For any code updates to the firmware I use the Arduino IDE.

    People like the look and It's more compact than traditional printers. This was actually a challenge to me to get it to work good with a 200x200 bed. Most commercial Cantilevers are limited to a 120x120mm bed.

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  • Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c's weekly stats: 3 months ago
    • 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c
      27,767 views
      268 favorites
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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c3 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Sorry to hear that. There is a huge ANET following so they may some answers. There a trick to tightening the hot-end. It needs to tighten itself against the throat tube and not the block itself As for quiting at the middle of a print that may indicate overheating of the steppers. That however could be for a million of reasons. I personally have never bought a 3D printer s as I get more fun out of designing them myself. There's gotta be something out there on the ANET. Like you said, they have a huge followingGood luck.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c3 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    The instructions for the laminated printer can be found here https://www.instructables.com/id/Laminated-Prusa-I...Somebody else noticed that one and is offering all the laser cut pieces via Thingibox http://store.thingibox.com/en/laser/400-3mm_lamina...

    Thank you!! Come back soon and see the entire assembly (down to the last screw) animated in Fusion 360.

    Well, then you are in the right place. In the next couple of days I'm going to figure out how to best offer the 3D printed parts and at what price. It will probably be through eBay. I will provide a link as soon as I get that up. As for Fusion 360, this printer was designed using Fusion 360. If you're interested, you can check out my GrabCad account at https://grabcad.com/core3d.tech-1 You'll find some of the Fusion 360 models associated with this printer. the best way to keep informed is to follow me on twitter @Core3D_tech I will tweet when I have figured out the logistics.

    Je vous en prie, merci beaucoup

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c3 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Thank you.In all honesty I'm not a big believer in the dual extruder. There's too many downsides to having to nozzles exactly at the same height. I'm looking forward to the development (and already available upgrade) by Prusa https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/printer-upgrades/185-m...The other limitation with this printer would be the exact linear rail length to bed ratio. There is no wiggle room beyond each corner of the bed. adding another nozzle would seriously cut into the print volume on the X-axis.Not sure how you would measure accuracy and precision. It prints pretty awesome prints but never forget this a cantilever printer. It is much more susceptible to vibration than a fully caged printer.

    My bad. Thanks for pointing that out. I've just added them.

    If this is because of imperial/metric, consider 2525. It's off by only 0.4mm (probably within margin of error). Like I said, the rails are available in 2020 but you'll have to "extract the power and electronics" from the core (and add some more 2020 with corner brackets

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    my motors are noisy as hell in spreadcycle too. Have you tried the bug fix release. With the original 1.1.8 I was loosing steps all over the place. replacing it with the bug fix release fixed all my problems

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    I had trouble with the original Marlin 1.1.8 and was instructed to download the bug_fix release. It solved my issues https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/b...Also are you running in stealthchop or spreadcycle mode?

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c3 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Thank you. The good news is that both the Z-axis implementation and Linear actuators used for this implementation have versions for 2020 (2040 for Z-axis). You can check out each of the instructables. (the Z-Axis currently only has has 2020 for 8mm rods)https://www.instructables.com/id/Linear-Screw-Doub...https://www.instructables.com/id/Generic-Linear-Ac...The bad news is that this printer is not easily retrofitted and here's why:-The entire frame wraps around the universal power unit which has the EXACT height of the 1020 frame. Going with 2040 for the back part of the frame would make the entire frame "float".-There is literally 2mm space between the bed carriage and electronics case (which, alredy is about as compact as it gets). Going with 2020 would lower the bed assembl...

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    Thank you. The good news is that both the Z-axis implementation and Linear actuators used for this implementation have versions for 2020 (2040 for Z-axis). You can check out each of the instructables. (the Z-Axis currently only has has 2020 for 8mm rods)https://www.instructables.com/id/Linear-Screw-Doub...https://www.instructables.com/id/Generic-Linear-Ac...The bad news is that this printer is not easily retrofitted and here's why:-The entire frame wraps around the universal power unit which has the EXACT height of the 1020 frame. Going with 2040 for the back part of the frame would make the entire frame "float".-There is literally 2mm space between the bed carriage and electronics case (which, alredy is about as compact as it gets). Going with 2020 would lower the bed assembly but 5.4mm, where there is no room to go. There's also the unknown of stability. I kind set out to prove you can build a cantilever with a 200x200 bed (most commercial cantilever has 120x120 bed). I get very stable prints but one might argue that even with 1010 I'm pushing the limits (I had to replace 8mm rods with 12mm rods in the Z-axis as 8mm offered absolutely no stability). I don't know the difference in stability between 1010 and 2020. In a normal arching design this wouldn't matter much, with cantilever it may mean the difference between succeed and fail.If you don't mind separating the power unit and electronics from the core of the printer (which was kind of the premise of this design), almost all pieces are in place to build this using 2020/2040 T-Slot.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c3 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Thank you. I appreciate that. This is my fourth printer and I learn new stuff every time. Good luck with your new build. Feel free to reach out with questions.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller3 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    You are correct I screwed that up. Replacing the image. A3 however equals pin 57

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller3 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Sharp observers have found the servo pins missing from this KFB2.0 board. Odd they did that. Should you wish to add a servo actuated auto level probe, here is what you can do: use pin 57 as signal for the servo and use gnd, vcc adjacent (see image).in the pins_RAMPS.h file, replace//// Servos//#ifdef IS_RAMPS_13#define SERVO0_PIN 7 // RAMPS_13 // Will conflict with BTN_EN2 on LCD_I2C_VIKI#else#define SERVO0_PIN 11#endifat the top with:#DEFINE SERVO0_PIN 57after that uncomment/*** Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm.|*/#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0 // Defaults to SERVO 0 connector.#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller3 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I'm asking around, but would any of the Max X, Y Z connectors not do the trick? Redirect Pin 2 from X_MAX_PIN (pins_RAMPS.h) to whatever servo pin your probe would use?

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller3 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    If you wish to use the TMC2130 Stepper drivers check out https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-RAMPS-14-With-TMC2130-Stepper-Drivers/ The wiring for this on the KFB2.0 will look something like this:

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    Glad to hear. Enjoy the quiet

    For KFB2.0 with TMC2130 consider the following setup (take note of pins assignment in pins_RAMPS.h

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    before I try to answer that one. Did you have a working LCD on your RAMPS prior to this upgrade or is this a build from scratch

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller4 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Please read this reply in conjunction with the instructable on upgrading RAMPS 1.4 to TMC2130 https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-RAMPS-1...I kept the pin configuration the same as my RAMPS 1.4 meaning in the pin_RAMPS.h I changed to DEFINE X_CS_PIN 44DEFINE Y_CS_PIN 64All CS pins are on Aux 2I Also did not use the Aux 3 but instead put the ISP connections to the ICSP pins (next to Aux3). I've attached an image with ISP pins and X_CS connected in that configuration.Also make sure you install the Bugfix_1.1.x.zip https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/b...The main release of 1.1.8 did not work (mostly lost steps) the bugfix release did workThe layout of the ISP on KFB2.0 is the same as the black and white image. going by the wires (and colors) defined in the TMC2130 inst...

    see more »

    Please read this reply in conjunction with the instructable on upgrading RAMPS 1.4 to TMC2130 https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-RAMPS-1...I kept the pin configuration the same as my RAMPS 1.4 meaning in the pin_RAMPS.h I changed to DEFINE X_CS_PIN 44DEFINE Y_CS_PIN 64All CS pins are on Aux 2I Also did not use the Aux 3 but instead put the ISP connections to the ICSP pins (next to Aux3). I've attached an image with ISP pins and X_CS connected in that configuration.Also make sure you install the Bugfix_1.1.x.zip https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/b...The main release of 1.1.8 did not work (mostly lost steps) the bugfix release did workThe layout of the ISP on KFB2.0 is the same as the black and white image. going by the wires (and colors) defined in the TMC2130 instructable. Black to 1/MISOBlue to 1/SCKGreen to 2/MOSISoftware setup remains the same as the RAMPS TMC2130 setupHope this helps

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    very clean. That's a great solution

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller4 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Thanks. Clever to take the plastic hoods off. I crimp all my own wires and I go like the fact that they "click" in place but this certainly works.

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  • Bergen Makerspace Transportable 3D Printer

    Very nice project!

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    Sure, I wouldn't stop you from doing that. I think this project is something you would do for the fun of the project. Nobody can compete (on price) with the stuff from China. Like I said in a previous reply, make sure you read the reviews, some of them you might want to avoid. For only a couple hundred more than the printer in this instructable, you can buy a real Prusa I3 MK2 kit (https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/17-3d-printers) . You can't go wrong with that.

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    I think you build a printer like this for the fun of building a printer. If you're just curious or interesting in the printing end of 3D printers you would be better off buying a printer. Read the customer reviews closely on some of these very cheap printers, some of these have a dead on arrival rate that is staggering. What you see on Amazon btw is not a Prusa I3, like my printer this is a Prusa I3 Derivative from China.

    This printer runs on a RAMPS 1.4 with is basically a shield on top of an Arduino Mego. You don't however send STL files to a 3D Printer. You take an STL file and run it though what is called a Slicer first. There are several free versions like Slic3r or Cura. This software is configured to know what your printer looks like (bed size, number of extruders, heated bed, cooling fan, etc). It takes your STL file and turns it into layers (slices) based on your specifications (like layer height, filament temp, bed temp, infill, print speed, etc). It in turn generates G-code that can either be read by your (or this) printer through an SD card that fits into the LCD unit or you can send it via USB.

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    maybe these setting changed:// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.#define INVERT_X_DIR true#define INVERT_Y_DIR false#define INVERT_Z_DIR true

    not sure if this has anything to do with it but it seems you have StallGaurd on Stallguard thrs0000DRVSTATUSXYZE0stallguardXsg_result0102300I don't, and I believe that might be what the diagnosis pin is for.have you enabled sensorless_homing in configuration_adv.h

    Not sure if this matters but I install my marlin installations in completely different folders and rename marlin folder and Marlin.ino\CoreXY\marlin\Marlin-bugfix-1.1.x\MarlinCoreXY_BugFixMarlinCoreXY_BugFix.inoI wonder if one of your marlin installs is trying to use/re-use precompiled stuff from the other version.

    I wasn't getting any errors with 1.1.8 but while printing it would simply start wandering by more then 50mm for the next layer. The steppers also weren't quiet, they sounded the same as before. After the bug_fix all travel went well and they did go quiet.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller5 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Yes, there is. You can add two z- motors parallel but you will be splitting currentsince you'd be using 2 motors for Z you can probably go with the lighter 0.4A (certainly not 2 2.8A steppers)

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    The aux 2 pins are the individual cx, cy, cz and c0 pins (the red wires in the diagram). The pins that go to aux 3 are the ones that are joined together each of the green wires coming from each driver are combined into one (you can't see in photo as the soldered bit is shrink sleeved) and go to Aux 3 D51Each of the black wires coming from each driver are combined into one and go to Aux 3 D50Each of the Blue wires coming from each driver are combined into one and go to Aux 3 D52The photo of the wires show the shrink sleeve wrapper combined wires. I did the automatic install of the TMC2130 drivers which is version 2.1.5. I have not tried any higher versions. I was forced to go with the Bug_fix release. Hope this helps

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    do you know if they're a4988 or drv8825? There really is nothing you have to do for them configuration wize (other than turn off HAVE_TMC2130. make sure you line up the dir and gnd pins on the drivers with the dir and gnd on the board. All you're trying to do is verify is the motors will turn on those.

    Did you use something like pronterface to test the motor? my m122 values are practically the same but when I just try to move 0.1mm the Enabled flips from false to true.Few questions:Did you have another driver, prior to the TMC2130? If so are you using the same stepper wires? i.e. did you have the same stepper motor running prior to upgrading to TMC2130?Are you using the AlieExpress version of the real TMC2130 Drivers?Do you have PINS_DEBUGGING on and if so, what is your M43 output?Do you have a picture of your wiring you can attach?

    sorry my motors are NOT until....

    When you say the motors are energized, what exactly does that mean? My motors are until I actually give a command to move.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Linear Screw Double Rail5 months ago
    Linear Screw Double Rail

    Done, added new stl files (DoubleScrewRail_2040_STL.zip) in the parts step that use a 2040 rail as support and accepts a 2020 cross rail in the slider. I put the LC8UU as close together as possible, still allowing to tighten t-nuts from the back (to support the crossbar).

    I just ordered a few pieces to make sure all fits when I design it.

    I sent you a message. Thx!! I will look into the linear Actuator as well. That one might be a bit more challenging as the timing belt runs inside the groove. Since it is more shallow (6mm compared to the 8mm in current design), creating a working slider might become a tight fit

    The 2020 and 4040 that you have around, does it have the grooves, or is it smooth? Much of the design is currently in the tight clip-on capability into the grooves. I'm currently redesigning this rail for 12mm linear rods and LC12UU block. I was a bit surprised about the flexibility in the 8mm rod. After that I can look into 2020 and 4040. In return would you be willing to return the favor by considering to support me on Patreon.com? https://www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech ;-)

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    I'm actually run my TMC2130 on RAMPS 1.4 not the KFB but I did try the drivers on my KFB2.0 for a quick test. I kept the pin configuration the same as my RAMPS 1.4 meaning inb the pin_RAMPS.h I changed to DEFINE X_CS_PIN 44DEFINE Y_CS_PIN 64All CS pins are on Aux 2I Also did not use the Aux 3 but instead put the ISP connections to the ICSP pins (next to Aux3). I've attached an image with ISP pins and X_CS connected in that configuration. Also make sure you install the Bugfix_1.1.x.zip https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/b...The main release of 1.1.8 did not work (mostly lost steps) the bugfix release did work

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