author
52Instructables685,966Views6,180CommentsAustraliaJoined June 11th, 2009
I like to improve myself and things I find :) Learning new things every day is next to impossible but I still try - only a working brain can work. I have no special sector to cover, electronics, electrical stuff, 3D printing, restoring old clocks and furniture. Whatever sounds interesting I try it. In my spare time I love to fly big kites, go fishing or simply go bush in 4WD to find a good fishing spot. Active spam fighter!

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  • So called "security" or "spy" shops online offer what you need from cheap to proffessional.I know corresponding apps also exist at least for Android.Like those where you place a filter foil over your cam to search for IR light sources or those RF detectors that show you if there is transmitting devices close by.To know what sort of detector you need you first need to know how important you are.A CEO of a big company certainly will have to deal with better listening devices than some babysitter on a 4 hour assignment.This means one will encounter frequencies totally outside normal bands while the other only needs to worry about the common and free frequencies like WiFi, UHF and so on.Similar story for the cam itself.Only spy toys make use of IR lights, pro devices won...

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    So called "security" or "spy" shops online offer what you need from cheap to proffessional.I know corresponding apps also exist at least for Android.Like those where you place a filter foil over your cam to search for IR light sources or those RF detectors that show you if there is transmitting devices close by.To know what sort of detector you need you first need to know how important you are.A CEO of a big company certainly will have to deal with better listening devices than some babysitter on a 4 hour assignment.This means one will encounter frequencies totally outside normal bands while the other only needs to worry about the common and free frequencies like WiFi, UHF and so on.Similar story for the cam itself.Only spy toys make use of IR lights, pro devices won't use it to AVOID detection and instead use very light sensitive lenses and chips.Then there is the problem of recording and transmission delays.To avoid detection many devices only transmit once the motion stopped for long enough or not at all - like thise babysitter monitor teddies.There are detectors that are able to find even a cam that is only recording and has no transmitter at all, just by detecting the very weak EMF produced by the electronics.Apart from being very costly those only work in a clean enviroment, having several cell phones, computers, lights and such working makes their use next to impossible.

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  • I guess you want to create a wireless Dolby system on the cheap.So lets start with some basics:Your controller needs to be able to split the channels and sort them for the individual speakers.The timings need to be matched to avoid delays and really weird sound effects.Even if you just want 5 stereo speakers.All receivers and transmitters need individual BT addresses and NAMES/ID's!The pairing needs to be limited so each receiver can only pair with the corresponding transmitter.If you need to compensate for distance then of course you need to adjust the signal delay accordingly.For the actual audio part you need to seperate the channels and if the signal is digital, like HDMI, then you also need to decode it.Let me know once you got the audio and pairing problems sorted.

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  • As said I would just use a purpose built door holding magnet.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Mpc1055's forum topic Arduino Pish Button code Issue1 day ago

    I have not run your code but think the problem might be within your loop.Both if functions for the button pressed could go in the same section.Only other thing is the actual adding and subtractions.Although you defined a delay it is quite possible that your Arduino gets confused.Count is set as an integer with the value 000 - it would make sense to make this just 0.A statement like press=count++; is logical from a users point of view.However firstly defining press like count to 0 and then actually adding real values would be better.Similar to press=press+1; or press=press-1;Inlcuding a check for zero and negative numbers should be added as well.My suspicion is that your press count stuff at some stage cause invalid results.A computer always needs to have clear and defined states, for th...

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    I have not run your code but think the problem might be within your loop.Both if functions for the button pressed could go in the same section.Only other thing is the actual adding and subtractions.Although you defined a delay it is quite possible that your Arduino gets confused.Count is set as an integer with the value 000 - it would make sense to make this just 0.A statement like press=count++; is logical from a users point of view.However firstly defining press like count to 0 and then actually adding real values would be better.Similar to press=press+1; or press=press-1;Inlcuding a check for zero and negative numbers should be added as well.My suspicion is that your press count stuff at some stage cause invalid results.A computer always needs to have clear and defined states, for the rest we need to tell the thing what is going on ;)

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  • Downunder35m's instructable Dual Tone Emergency Whistle's weekly stats: 1 day ago
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  • Why not just use an electromagnect door stopper?They are the ones that for example in hospitals keep the fire doors open.And once an alarm goes off they are turned off and the doors close.If you need to stick with your type of solenoid then check pinball machines, or better the solenoids for their fillpers.And well, if friction is your big problem then some more details would be helpful.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Design criteria for Ibles....2 days ago

    Download my whistle and be surprised that it actually makes sound ;)

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  • Isn't that what the numbers on the knob are for already?Make a 40:1 transformer or buy a ready to go one.Have it parallel to the motor assuming the motor only has one winding (most have 4).Rectify the output and map it to an input.Makes 5 signals from off to 200V.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Kiteman's forum topic Unable to view comments3 days ago

    Well, I got an Email informing me about comments on my Ible.No comments visible in the Ible...Followed the comment tracker from the Email and from my profile but still the comment I see in my Emails is not there at all.Logging in and out did not help either.Does anyone do any testing and checking before new things are implemented or are we now down to just user reports and hoping things get better? ;)I mean, it is not like anyone would actually bother to read or answer comments, or is it?No offense but usability of this site seems to still go downhill instead of back uphill :(

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Design criteria for Ibles....3 days ago

    I agree with you that a nice flow of how something meiningful was created is nice.Let's say I create a totally new extruder system for my printer.Then of course I would include some pics highlighting the improvements and why I changed some things.Same for a video in action.I was just a bit stunned to know this would be a "requirement" for something as simple as a whistle LOLAlready got requests to show how my quiting templates are used.Will be hard as these old ladies usually work in costumes and I am about 100km away from their workplace.But will ask someone to take them for me.Here I really don't mind more pics, especially not if requested so nicely.Makes sense that people want to see something in action.But honestly: You wouldn't want to see a pic or even video of me showin...

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    I agree with you that a nice flow of how something meiningful was created is nice.Let's say I create a totally new extruder system for my printer.Then of course I would include some pics highlighting the improvements and why I changed some things.Same for a video in action.I was just a bit stunned to know this would be a "requirement" for something as simple as a whistle LOLAlready got requests to show how my quiting templates are used.Will be hard as these old ladies usually work in costumes and I am about 100km away from their workplace.But will ask someone to take them for me.Here I really don't mind more pics, especially not if requested so nicely.Makes sense that people want to see something in action.But honestly: You wouldn't want to see a pic or even video of me showing how to blow a whistle ROFL

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  • Downunder35m commented on iceng's forum topic Your full of Bugs !3 days ago

    That is one of the reason I keep a huntsman spider as apet during the summer.Only takes one to keep my house bug free.Jusr double check before you have a shower as they like to go there to get a drink of the water droplets left on the walls.Or did you mean this website would have bugs?If so then you are mistaken!We reported all bugs ages ago and they all have been fixed right away, all is good now.You seem to confuse features with bugs...;)

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  • Grounding such equippment is sometimes tricky.The electronics driving the motors produce a lot of interference.In an indstrial setup all housing and external parts are grounded to earth.All electronics that benefit from grounding will share the same negavite.And all power supplies, probes or similar would be grounded to earth using filters.Let's try a worst case example, an inverter driven plasma cutter or welder:Here the entire housing of the machine is grounded to earth.However, the work platform is isolated from this erth grounding if the inverter requires to be without earth grounding.Instead you get two seperate "grounds".One for all machine parts not connected to the inverter and one "floating" ground for all inverter related things.If the grounding would be sh...

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    Grounding such equippment is sometimes tricky.The electronics driving the motors produce a lot of interference.In an indstrial setup all housing and external parts are grounded to earth.All electronics that benefit from grounding will share the same negavite.And all power supplies, probes or similar would be grounded to earth using filters.Let's try a worst case example, an inverter driven plasma cutter or welder:Here the entire housing of the machine is grounded to earth.However, the work platform is isolated from this erth grounding if the inverter requires to be without earth grounding.Instead you get two seperate "grounds".One for all machine parts not connected to the inverter and one "floating" ground for all inverter related things.If the grounding would be shared then the interference from the inverter would simply destroy the electronics.Downside of such setups is that static electricity can build up.Hence often filters are used that do block all high frequency interference but let DC pass through.If your probe won't work with a shared ground connection then I guess the only way out would be to isolate it.Either through the workpiece or by means of seperating the grounding for the probe circuit.But it would be best to consult the manufacturer to excatly know what is possible and/or required.

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  • How would one be able to answer this without any code or details to figure out where the problem is?Sadly my crystal ball seems to be stuck in the polishing center...

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  • I have seen his work and he does it the right way.Showing what is possible without giving enough clues how to repeat it.Sadly the only way these days to keep new inventions alive for the inventor.Still struggling to create the coppering solution he uses on stainless steel.Would come handy sometimes...

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  • A slight voltage drop is quite normal here.Question is wether or not this will impact on the performance.The board is between battery and output and even if it would be just a single protecting diode - it would cause a slight voltage drop of about 0.7V already.Anything making sure the battery is disconnected under unsuitable conditions will need a certain amount of voltage but hopefully only a mA or less to operate.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Design criteria for Ibles....5 days ago

    They are not posted...But I can forward the PM I got that informed me how an Instructable shall be created and what needs to be included to reach the standards ;)Fair enough it turned out to be a case of too much work and not enough sleep and was corrected but still...I was quite stunned to get a note letting me know I need to include pictures of the making to be published.

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  • Just use a voltage regulator.One with 9V should show a dimming, go to 5V and it is even less.For a resistor you need the amps the light draws and it will waste a lot of heat.

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  • You should use a heatsink on these.The 9V battery is far from ideal as well because it struggles to provide enough amps.And if your motor exceeds what the 293 can provide then you get smoke as well.

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  • Maybe not what you hoped for but anyways:If you have some half decent wood working skills it is not too hard to make a violin body from wood.There are even quite a few online videos showing the making of similar instruments from scratch.More or less just a frame with thin wood panels shaped around it - and wood still produces the best look if you ask me.And if you really go electric then the sound qualities of the body can be neglected quite a bit.Maybe you are just overthinking the problem!?Let me give you a prototyping example:Take a block of polystyrene and carve, file and sand a body out of it.Put a sealer on the entire surface and give it a fine sanding, then a thin coat of mold release wax or a similar agent.Use fibreglass strips or matting plus the corresponding resin to cover th...

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    Maybe not what you hoped for but anyways:If you have some half decent wood working skills it is not too hard to make a violin body from wood.There are even quite a few online videos showing the making of similar instruments from scratch.More or less just a frame with thin wood panels shaped around it - and wood still produces the best look if you ask me.And if you really go electric then the sound qualities of the body can be neglected quite a bit.Maybe you are just overthinking the problem!?Let me give you a prototyping example:Take a block of polystyrene and carve, file and sand a body out of it.Put a sealer on the entire surface and give it a fine sanding, then a thin coat of mold release wax or a similar agent.Use fibreglass strips or matting plus the corresponding resin to cover the body on all sides.Outside look is not too important.Once cured cut it open along the sides and remove the foam dummy.You just created a mold you can use for making more bodies ;)

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  • If it is the antenna then just poking a wire of about 1.5m length into the antanna port should give you reception of close stations.Still nothing and you might have a dead tuner in the radio.Cassette radio are becoming collectors items now and see a revival as well, would be a shame if broken.As an alternative look on Ebay or such for a cassette audio adapter.Back before we had CD's they were quite common to add an audio input to an old radio.A dummy cassette is used that has a small "transponder" which feeds the audio directly into the head of the radio.Not perfect but would allow you to keep the radio while using some other input source for your music.

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  • For a quick repair job I misused some hardwood.Was a round log with a bit more in diameter than what I needed.Used the drill press and a spare chuck to hold it and a normal wood chisel to shape the end.One side to press the outer edge out to prevent it from cutting into the wood, the other end with a double taper to get the pipe expanded from inner to outer diameter.Takes some bashing and preferably two people though.

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  • Downunder35m commented on danneauxs's forum topic Bottle stem holder6 days ago

    You are right with the UV glue.I tried several, including non-UV curing glues.Most actually work fine if it is just to fix a broken piece but no so good if you want to actually use the glass as normal once fixed.Dishwashers for example reduce the adhesive to nothing quickly, hot stuff usually makes the bond go soft and well, freezing temps make it brittle and pop off.Waterglass or sodium silicate solution works to some extend but usually leaves a white residue that is really hard to clean off.So far I have not found anything that fixes glass back to what it was :(

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  • I had a quick read and have to say your project looks quite nice.You put a lot of thought into a problem that could have been solved easy with a bigger arduino.But impossible at the size you created.Copy and paste might not work, same for an import.However it should be fairly easy to just copy the text for steps and to add the pictures, shouldn't take too long.And with all your good explanations I am almost certain an Instructable would draw some attention.

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  • Downunder35m commented on danneauxs's forum topic Bottle stem holder7 days ago

    I tried a similar thing with various success.The biggest problem is a clean cut, so you might need a rig for this - trust me, well worth the extra time.Problem with glue is that you need something that can tolerate not just the changing temps from cold drinks and hot water in the sink.There are food safe epoxy glues and resins available - check a local molding supply store, or online for that matter.But none of them really work well on unsanded (frosted) glass.Some are not tolerant to alcohol, so check that part carefully.Melting glass together is certainly an option but without a half decent kiln to heat the glass and a good torch you will end up with about 50% of loss like I did ;)I ended up making just some normal glasses without a stem, just the bottom part of a bottle...

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  • I can't be 100% sure but the corrosion looks like it is copper based, maybe some brass.Do these little tests please:Use some vinegar and a pot scourer - does the metal get chiny like copper or brass when rubbing it for a while?Does the metal turn really black or grey in color?If the first happens then go to some Indian grocery shop and buy a small bag of "Pitambara" , or otherwsie called in these stores "Shining powder".It cleans copper and brass parts more than good and better than any metal polish I know.If you leave the bottle soaking in a solution of this stuff then it should change back to a clean metal within a few hours.A bit of rubbing and wiping with a cloth every now and then will speed it up.If the metal turns black or greyish with the vinegar then you dea...

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    I can't be 100% sure but the corrosion looks like it is copper based, maybe some brass.Do these little tests please:Use some vinegar and a pot scourer - does the metal get chiny like copper or brass when rubbing it for a while?Does the metal turn really black or grey in color?If the first happens then go to some Indian grocery shop and buy a small bag of "Pitambara" , or otherwsie called in these stores "Shining powder".It cleans copper and brass parts more than good and better than any metal polish I know.If you leave the bottle soaking in a solution of this stuff then it should change back to a clean metal within a few hours.A bit of rubbing and wiping with a cloth every now and then will speed it up.If the metal turns black or greyish with the vinegar then you deal with a steel alloy.Here just letting it soak in vinigar over night should free the threads enough to open it.

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  • Apple does not conform to the USB charging standards.Firstly Apple devices need a really stable (ripple free) power supply.Secondly you also need to provide the correct voltages on the data lines so Apple products "recognise" the chargers capabilitites.Where a normal Android still charges at 500mA without the voltages on the data lines, Applejust states you are not using an Apple charger.There are Wikipedia articles explaining what voltages on the data lines correspond to what charging mode, from 500mA to normal over to quick and full power charge.

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  • Remove the battery and it should work fine just on mains power.And for the monitor it is similar, remove all but power, screen and computer connection.

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  • Downunder35m commented on JimO44's forum topic Remote control pool heat pump9 days ago

    Then please provide the info needed to identify the problem....

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  • Your problem is not defrosting but preventing moisture inside you lock.I come from from long and hard winters too...Despite what companies advertise and other people might invent - prevention is still better ;)A good quality lock can be removed and taken apart for cleaning.Do this with methylated spirit or if none available acetone.Once all metal parts that work the mechanism are clean anddry you lube the generously with SILICONE grease.This stuff not just lubes but also drives out water.Lock prepared like this survived for me not only really hard winters but also those milder days in between.You know, warming up and defrosting a bit during the day only to freeze again at night.If hot water for you but the lock freezes again quickly then no electrical gadget will make it better ;)

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  • Whatever is able to clean and dissolve it will also dissolve other plastics or remove paint.The only "solution" for uncured resin that works half decent is oil.Orange or citrus oil, linseed oil, vegetable oil...It prevents the resin from sticking while cleaning up and a coarse cloth can collect it with more or less success.Removal of resin from a surface however still requires some rubbing and repetition.Once the surface becomes slippery from the oil and with no resistance from the resin you can clean the remains and oil with soapy water.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Tooltip's forum topic Advice on Brass wire soldering11 days ago

    Two problems, proper heat and preventing oxidation.The cleaning of the brass is a must do to clean it.The flux should be suited for the job!Acid based flux that forms a crust is better here than resin based ones as the later won't tolerate the heat for long.What you call soldering is actually brazing ;)Try this old beginner's trick:Have a fine stainless steel brush at hand.Heat the wire and use the brush to clean the wire when hot.With some flux on the brush you adda thin coating of flux at the same time.Quickly add the solder by rubbing it over the surface of the wire - you want to melt the solder on the metal but not with the flame.As an added exercise you can try to find the sweet spot of your flame just with the solder.The point where it starts to melt is what you need, much higher ...

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    Two problems, proper heat and preventing oxidation.The cleaning of the brass is a must do to clean it.The flux should be suited for the job!Acid based flux that forms a crust is better here than resin based ones as the later won't tolerate the heat for long.What you call soldering is actually brazing ;)Try this old beginner's trick:Have a fine stainless steel brush at hand.Heat the wire and use the brush to clean the wire when hot.With some flux on the brush you adda thin coating of flux at the same time.Quickly add the solder by rubbing it over the surface of the wire - you want to melt the solder on the metal but not with the flame.As an added exercise you can try to find the sweet spot of your flame just with the solder.The point where it starts to melt is what you need, much higher temp will only cause problems.And if the flame is really hot then it can be beneficial to not use it directly on the metal - this drastically reduces the reduction of the flux.

    If you get it glowing red hot than the torch will be fine.Normal solder is definately easier but as you said, the color is a problem.

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  • Downunder35m commented on GanadoRH's forum topic '02 Prius: Create AUX audio input12 days ago

    I would just get a $30 face plate and a cheap stereo with BT, handsfree and all.Did exactly that the other week in a Toyota Swift and worked just fine.With an adapter plug/cable even without any wiring headaches...Total costs: $72AU ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Amit2222's forum topic Audio amplifier grounding12 days ago

    Having them seperate is exactly what most try to prevent when setting up high end audio equippment.A "hanging" ground is always source of unwanted signals and even less wanted interference.Been there too many times back in the vinyl glory days ;)You have two camps, the purists, going analog and the new age going digital.For the later fibre optic connections provide fully ungrounded operations with no real interference of any kind.On the other side most high end and almost all analog systems do require a common ground or better EARTH to work within audio quality specs.If you have a signal in- and output at different ground levels then you literally have two independent "batteries" so to speak.One side has to make up for the difference, in the worst case by blowing up ...

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    Having them seperate is exactly what most try to prevent when setting up high end audio equippment.A "hanging" ground is always source of unwanted signals and even less wanted interference.Been there too many times back in the vinyl glory days ;)You have two camps, the purists, going analog and the new age going digital.For the later fibre optic connections provide fully ungrounded operations with no real interference of any kind.On the other side most high end and almost all analog systems do require a common ground or better EARTH to work within audio quality specs.If you have a signal in- and output at different ground levels then you literally have two independent "batteries" so to speak.One side has to make up for the difference, in the worst case by blowing up some parts.And once you connect the signals you create a path for those two batteries.In a good audio system EARTH and common ground are only seperated by filters.Meaning that if you measure you should see no voltage at all at any time between audio gorund and EARTH.The filters make sure that no interference enters the audio signal that originated from the outside, like the power supply area.If you then connect the audio signals without sharing EARTH connections on the device the audio line becomes the transmitter for everything in interference that differs from one device to the other.Only way I know to avoid this crosstalking and interference build up is to add a suitable filter between audio input and audio output.Whatever frequency the speakers can handle is allowed through the rest is blocked.Downside is a certain quality loss and a slight powerloss of the signal when passing through the filter.So it could really help to get much more detailed info on the problem from your end if that is possible!?

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  • Downunder35m commented on Bforce2321's forum topic Contests 12 days ago

    I tried to figure that one out for a while myself.The best I got so far is that some seem "to slip through".In some case an Instructable however really does fit into the guidelines of more than one running contest.And even if not really in the fair spirit of things I can't really blame anyone doing it.For example if there is a make it glow and a woodworking contest then a wooden LED lamp would fit both.Deciding if entering both contests with the same Ible is fair is one thing.But making the right decision if something would be good enough to win both contests is a different story.Might be hard to explain to the later places why the winner of their contest is also first in another with the same project.Have not seen that yet, so I guess some safeguards are in place.

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  • I struggled with it for a while too, so maybe some of my "insight" helps to explain things.Instructables tries to make everything as easy (clickable) as possible.And that means for all platforms used to show the websites, be it a 4K smart TV or an older smartphone with a small screen.What you upload goes into your collection "as is".However what is shown on a certain browser or device depends on the capabilitites.Thumb sized images are created as well as those for different backend resolutions.Similar (sadly) story for using the images you uploaded.Unless you use HTLM and external images sources (can be unreliable!) you need to find what you want to use in your image library.For example just dragging an image from your top bar into your step means you might get a di...

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    I struggled with it for a while too, so maybe some of my "insight" helps to explain things.Instructables tries to make everything as easy (clickable) as possible.And that means for all platforms used to show the websites, be it a 4K smart TV or an older smartphone with a small screen.What you upload goes into your collection "as is".However what is shown on a certain browser or device depends on the capabilitites.Thumb sized images are created as well as those for different backend resolutions.Similar (sadly) story for using the images you uploaded.Unless you use HTLM and external images sources (can be unreliable!) you need to find what you want to use in your image library.For example just dragging an image from your top bar into your step means you might get a different resolution than what you uploaded.In most cases this makes sense as nothing above full HD is considered a standard viewing device.So an image needs to fit in there somehow and if you uploaded a 12K image from your DSLR then it simply would be bigger than the entire website.To add insult to injury we are supposed to follow the right way of handling images, if in doubt one step per image so you are actually able to get meaningful text with the right image.Only way out is manually editing in HTML to include a fixed images size and position that allows a click on the image to open it in another tab at full resolution.The usual way in other places is to do exactly that but automatically.Means the user does not need to find the right link to the image in the top bar by opeing several new pages.Just place the image where you need it, use the sliders to adjust the size to the text and page width, done.If a user needs it in full scale then again a simple click on it opens in a new tab or window.A lot of all these limitations we face come down to being able to compress an Instructable into a usable PDF for download.You might be able to still read a single sentence of hundred words in one line on your screen - but you won't be able to get it into a single readable line on an A4 sheet of paper ;)This firstly explain why we are limited to a certain "textbox size" for our Ibles.But also how big an image can be to make sense in relation to the text size.Again, if you would want to get a printable PDF copy then an image of lets say 5196x5196 pixels would be well above what a normal printer can provide to it within text size limits.As most people won't use a photo printer and glossy photo paper it makes sense to keep it to a max of 600DPI.The downside of this is that a bunch of reasonably sized images would require more space then what is left for the corresponding text.Hence the need for the bundling up of multiple images or using a step for each picture.Of course there are better ways of dealing with a PDF creation of websites containing high res pictures.Like adding the option to have one or all images added in full resolution for seperated prints or screen use.As this is currently not possible with the PDF format only providing a compressed archive of all or all indiviual pictures at full resolution would be an alternative.Considering the added date volume not really a feasable option in terms of costs for providing them.If you want to include a high res option then currently the only way I know is finding the "large" image you need and then to use HTML to manually embed it where you need it and in the form you need it.For that however you still need to consider the above restraints ;)

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  • 50A all up or 50A per phase?Either way I struggle to get it working with your size limits.At these powers and 12V you need massive cable sizes and I doubt you get anywhere near enough turns within the space you provide.

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  • Downunder35m commented on AndreeaS19's forum topic Airsoft target floating15 days ago

    Help with what exactly as I already struggle to understand that scribble you posted?

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  • Downunder35m commented on TedD's forum topic Capacitor Value15 days ago

    I would say 5nF.

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  • The only feasable options I ever tried:a: Get another 500W amp and bridge it to the existing one, gives then 500W per channel.b: Replace the output transistor(s) to some of a higher rating but with simial characteristics - a lot of audio amplifiers come with transistors that have higher rater brothers and sisters ;)Adding transistors to the output is usually a bad idea as it ivolves quite a few complex calculations.In the best case you do get more power but with some added noise and other problems.In the worst case it won't work at all and you have a chance to blow the pre-amp stage.

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  • Was just a suggestion and I hoped that people would post links to their creations so far.Totally up to you how you offer the membership and who gets it!!

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  • Downunder35m commented on joelchidi's forum topic ERROR MESSAGE IN NCSTUDIO FOR CNC 17 days ago

    Your machine only accepts G-Code.No clue where you got the first line from or why but it needs to be deleted.After that your code should work unless you have more invalid codes bits further down.

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  • See! Now the controller makes a lot more sense!The fan goes onto those pins in your image!I then guess the controller is actually to use a standard fan on a motherboard that needs a fan speed response.A bit more complex than what you need LOLThat then makes Yellow your 12V positive and black your gound/negative.With that the controller should be able to provide an output to the fan connector.With your pic as shown, the first pin from the left should be ground, the second motor positive and the last the sensing.You only need the first two though.I assume that connected like this you should be able to control the speed of your gearbox.

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  • One suggestion for a fair game:If you want something "for free" then it would make sense to offer something "free" in return ;)A lot of people post good Ibles but so far did not get featured.Maybe it would be nice if you post a link to your best Ible so far when asking for a freebie? ;)Just my opinion though!

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Funny login bug!18 days ago

    LOLYou are not saying that just because I was directed to your profile somehow that this bug unblocked your account?Damn, I knew I should have changed your password ;)

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  • There is two common things to make ethanol undrinkable.a: Adding methanol - this will wash out with no trace.b: Smell, taste and vomit agents.B can be tricky sometimes as the smell can linger in plastic for a long time.What helps though is UV, just put it in the sun for a while ;)Either way, unless it was for very special purposes no added ethanol agent will harm your garden or bacteria if you already washed it three times.I use containers that had AD-Blue (urea) in them, plus coloring and smeel agents.Did not even bother washing them out, just rinsed the leftovers out and all plants I put in there are still happy :)

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  • Do you mean the term as in metal alloys?And what do you mean by folders??I assume english is not your native tongue.Try this in the search box of your favourite search engine:XXXXX site:www.instructables.comXXXXX is your search term, like when searching for "knitting you would put knitting instead of the XXXXX.The search here on the website is usually not really successfull finding what one is looking for.

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  • I guess the controller is just some adjustable voltage regulator but if so than it would be better for your purpose anyways.As the controller is rated for 1A it should have no problems to provide at least 0.5A without getting too hot - and that is more than your motor would need.Assuming the wire colors are correct and the controller has no additional plug or similar:Black is ground/negative.Yellow is 12V+Green and blue are the motor connections.Reversing the last two will change the direction of your motor.I don't know if your instructions came with a proper wiring diagram, in case they did then please provide then here."Control" in Chinglish can be both the positive wire for the motor and the wire for the speed sensor of a fan motor.From experience however I would say the st...

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    I guess the controller is just some adjustable voltage regulator but if so than it would be better for your purpose anyways.As the controller is rated for 1A it should have no problems to provide at least 0.5A without getting too hot - and that is more than your motor would need.Assuming the wire colors are correct and the controller has no additional plug or similar:Black is ground/negative.Yellow is 12V+Green and blue are the motor connections.Reversing the last two will change the direction of your motor.I don't know if your instructions came with a proper wiring diagram, in case they did then please provide then here."Control" in Chinglish can be both the positive wire for the motor and the wire for the speed sensor of a fan motor.From experience however I would say the stuff in the first part I wrote should be correct and combined with your "instructions" I assume blue should go on red for the motor and green on black of the motor.If in doubt crank it down and try it out, not much bad can happen.

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  • Downunder35m commented on PS118's forum topic Hall sensor question19 days ago

    Depends on what your skills are and how good you are with Arduino or Raspberry PI.It is quite possible to extend the wires for a sensor so it can be placed into a ube or in very thight spaces.This however can mean you need to compensate for the extra wire lenght if accuracy is a priority.You should also keep in mind that a hall sensor reacts to ALL magnetic fields close enough, so interence can be an issue as well as placement.For example a standard 5 core cable for a 3-phase motor not only has two live wires more but also the back emf from the motor.In many cases it turns out that providing extra length in the cable or wire to be measured is far easier than anything else.For example a little loop to the outside with a small boxcontaining the current transformer or sensor.

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  • Highly depends on what your TV can provide as output and what the recorder accepts in input.Generally most TV's only provide an audio pass trough but no "second" video output.But being smart you could use a cheap USB HDD enclosure and salvage the hard drive from the recorder for it.A lot of streaming services allow some recording and there are apps for screen recording as well.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Funny login bug!19 days ago

    Tried a few times with the login.First just by logging out and back in again several times.Except for once it all went fine.That one time I gog a 404 error, so could be nothing.A reboot did not change anything, still good.After clearing cache and history the loading seemed to take quite a while longer when I tried to log in.Then I was back to the normal Instructables page and no profile, not even mine.I guess that is how it should always be.A few logins later and I did land on my own profile page once.When I landed on Rick's page I had the brwoser and computer running for about 2 days until I let it go to sleep.And yes, I browsed a few profiles during that time but don't recall Ricks with them.However I think I might have found the culprit behind it:My ISP introduced a "service&quo...

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    Tried a few times with the login.First just by logging out and back in again several times.Except for once it all went fine.That one time I gog a 404 error, so could be nothing.A reboot did not change anything, still good.After clearing cache and history the loading seemed to take quite a while longer when I tried to log in.Then I was back to the normal Instructables page and no profile, not even mine.I guess that is how it should always be.A few logins later and I did land on my own profile page once.When I landed on Rick's page I had the brwoser and computer running for about 2 days until I let it go to sleep.And yes, I browsed a few profiles during that time but don't recall Ricks with them.However I think I might have found the culprit behind it:My ISP introduced a "service" called fast browsing.Here they claim it provides much faster loading times for a customer.All they do is to cache content so I was no longer in full control of how recent a webpage is.I contacted my ISP with an exclusion list and mentioned if that is not possible to fully disable this "feature" for my account.Will let you know once I got a response and tried a gain a few times.

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  • If it still smells like alcohol then let it sit open for a few days after flushing it out.In case that does not help and the drum looks clean then don't bother!The smell will go away and only leftover alcohol would be a slight problem for your bacteria.Nothing harmful, no drama, just just it and enjoy!

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  • You can still enter in HTML but it seems they are doing some major little things right now, so it might come back next week.

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  • Downunder35m commented on mahmoodks's forum topic CAR AC TO A SMALL BED CABIN21 days ago

    The compressor of a car AC is belt driven.Unless you have a suitable motor you can't use it at all.As for solar:You need panels that provide at least 30% more power than what your motor for the aircon would need.Plus of course some decent batteries for those cloudy times or the evening.

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  • Downunder35m commented on MC92's forum topic Why does my HHO generator not work22 days ago

    As a suggestion for you plate setup:Mount all plates into one stack but have one connection in the middle and two at the ends.Then, like you already have use metal strips to go to the top connectors for your wires.The loop you have at the bottom will act like a reflector.Current wants to go where the plates are but the loop provides a different potential for half of your stack, like sucking your energy down to make a bad explanation.In better words it means that the electrical potential between your plates will be lowered by quite a bit.

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  • I have seen these tools in a few variations but never any that came from a shop.Around here people buy a cheap engine crane and use the parts to make them.Another way of conversion that I have seen uses a high lift jack for 4WD's.Top extends to whaere you have the stamp on the concrete, the actual lifting part has a slide on hook to go under the load and at the end you place a small hydraulic jack.As said, seen a lot of the variations but never something that appear to be bought in a shop.

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  • Downunder35m commented on MC92's forum topic Why does my HHO generator not work23 days ago

    Well, it certainly is not the best option here.The suphates will be part of the reaction and through contamination slow the process down.Distance is also vital.I suggest to try sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner without aluminium shavings).About 2 tablespoons per liter of water should at least give you some bubbles.

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  • Ancient proof....As I said before WE don't really know how the long the moon is there.Ancient texts however speak from the time before the moon.When the sky was truely dark.Before the moon the weather was calm and predictable, the seas with far less storms.And even through our religions the timeframes match up when it comes to the big floods.Humanity was almost wiped out by rising sea levels floods and earthquakes.And only after "the moon was placed" we find it mentioned in in stories about the great explorers of the sea.Before that we never heard about tides or the lunar cycle.With the moon appearing we also get the start of the sightings of the "helpers" of humanity.New and so far unknown technologies, knowledge, wisdom.But it all stopped once we reached a certain ...

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    Ancient proof....As I said before WE don't really know how the long the moon is there.Ancient texts however speak from the time before the moon.When the sky was truely dark.Before the moon the weather was calm and predictable, the seas with far less storms.And even through our religions the timeframes match up when it comes to the big floods.Humanity was almost wiped out by rising sea levels floods and earthquakes.And only after "the moon was placed" we find it mentioned in in stories about the great explorers of the sea.Before that we never heard about tides or the lunar cycle.With the moon appearing we also get the start of the sightings of the "helpers" of humanity.New and so far unknown technologies, knowledge, wisdom.But it all stopped once we reached a certain level of development, or better aggression.Modern proof....Hobby astromomers continue to witness strange lights moving over the moon.Be it just a glow or complext flight patters with changing speeds or even lights on the part that appears dark to us with the phase changes.If we are not up there then where do the lights come from?NASA made statements like gasouses releases or unknown phenomenon.Basically they say they have no clue and would prefer not to go into too much details.If we actually created a base up there before the official moon missions then everyone there would be quite old and fragile by now.Certainly not flying around in glowing space crafts.More and more scientists outside space agencies become interested in these lights.And considering their sightings seem to increase it can only mean two things.a. We are quite active up there and one day we are being told what we actually do up there.b. It is not us causing the sightings....

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  • Downunder35m commented on Jarib123's forum topic Material to retain heat23 days ago

    No matter what you enclose to deal with heat you need to consider expansion, possible steam and even cooling down effects.Some things might turn liquid, get sticky, seal your porous container and so on.There is really only one way to find out - try it out...Had another thought and maybe you can combine one with the other.For example using clay as a binder and your prefered choice to be heated mixed into it.Basically creating a solid heating block of sorts.And by the way: metals are no problem in a microwave at all.Comes down to surface area and how the surface is created.Around here quite a few microwave dishes come in containers made from aluminium foil and the foil won't spark or such things.Years ago I did som "what could go wrong" experiments with an old microwave.I was su...

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    No matter what you enclose to deal with heat you need to consider expansion, possible steam and even cooling down effects.Some things might turn liquid, get sticky, seal your porous container and so on.There is really only one way to find out - try it out...Had another thought and maybe you can combine one with the other.For example using clay as a binder and your prefered choice to be heated mixed into it.Basically creating a solid heating block of sorts.And by the way: metals are no problem in a microwave at all.Comes down to surface area and how the surface is created.Around here quite a few microwave dishes come in containers made from aluminium foil and the foil won't spark or such things.Years ago I did som "what could go wrong" experiments with an old microwave.I was surprised that most metal things did not do anything expect getting hot.Only if too small and with a bad surface, like crunched up aluminium foil balls or a fork it gives a lot of sparks.Couldn't get any with decent sized stuff that had no sharp edges or corners.

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  • Downunder35m commented on MC92's forum topic Why does my HHO generator not work23 days ago

    Your setup is quite weird...You want about 2.2- max 2.6V per plate.For a 12V supply you need 4-5 neutral plates between the ones connected to power.Judging by the brown color of your water you are not using stainless steel and maybe not the right electrolyte either.

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  • Part 5.Movement theories..The claims of insane speeds and impossible turns seem to contradict what a human pilot would be able to endure.According to some claims the claimed movements and documented flights suggest G-forces in excess of 15g !If claims of more than 90° turns at full speed are true we would be looking at forced that crush you like a fly under your car tyre...Plasma has weird properties...We know plasma as a form of high energy particles, often used for cutting steel and other things.Flouroscent lamps also have a form of plasma inside when the glow.And the famous Elm's fire is a form of electrical discharge plasma.Plasma in some sense is also what you get when you seperate molecules - the enrgy needs to go somewhere.The entire Repulsine design claims include variable magne...

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    Part 5.Movement theories..The claims of insane speeds and impossible turns seem to contradict what a human pilot would be able to endure.According to some claims the claimed movements and documented flights suggest G-forces in excess of 15g !If claims of more than 90° turns at full speed are true we would be looking at forced that crush you like a fly under your car tyre...Plasma has weird properties...We know plasma as a form of high energy particles, often used for cutting steel and other things.Flouroscent lamps also have a form of plasma inside when the glow.And the famous Elm's fire is a form of electrical discharge plasma.Plasma in some sense is also what you get when you seperate molecules - the enrgy needs to go somewhere.The entire Repulsine design claims include variable magnetic, electrical and electromagnetical fields.But also that air is being seperated and accelerated so much that a vacuum forms between the molecules.Static electricity comes to mind here...A plasma as we know forms best in a vacuum - like inside the wave discs in several sections.Unlike our modern plasma it is a cold plasma.And if claims are again true than we end with two different potentials.Insideat one extreme and outside as the other extreme.Unused energy needs to go somewhere and that means the only way is to generated a plasma field around the hull.Like with some magnet toys you get the attraction from the inner potential but the plasma can't get past the same potential on the outer hull.Like a bubble or "force field" it will go around the hull without ever touching it.With the high energy plasma comes the magnetic field.And with that the electromagnetic field.If I get my sorting of old claims and informations correct than the theory of fast and impossible movements goes like this:Gravity is something we all know but most people don't understand.One mass is attracted by another in a vacuum and without gravity.Means that the gravity the objects create attract each other.And if one is significantly bigger then the smaller one will be accelerated faster.Explains why the Apple hit Newton on the head...No, not like that! - His head was just in the direct line to earth's center of mass and gravity ;)If gravity then is a form of energy it can be manipulated.Same with mass as one can not be without the other.Reduce the mass of an object to zero and you have no big problems anymore getting it to lightspeed.A full compensation however would mean you have an exact opposing force for this at your disposal.And that in any way we know would simply violate our laws of physics again.What if?Some claims clearly state that the people inside did not feel any movement at all.They did not even require seats or safety belts during high speed turns.In those claims it is said the Repulsine was shielded from all those negative effects.Also that only during low speed operations the people got sea sick and felt the craft moving in all directions.But going from zero to full speed at an instant did not even cause a bottle of water to fall over.All "crew areas" were located below the top half.If the combined and harmonic fields create their own gravitational "bubble" then indeed no movement would be felt inside.Otherwise we would have a hard time holding on to our ground at the speed our planet moves through the universe - our own gravity protects us from the effects.And same for the effects of the rotations around the sund, galaxy and so on - they all canel each other out almost perfctly.A gravity bubble around the Repulsine would also mean that even slight changes in the outer field would produce massive forces onto the craft.Or to be precise: onto the outer field without affecting the inner as they cancel each other out!The strategic location 120° apart of the "generators" allows for a very easy directional control of the field.One interesting observation here was that the glowing around the Repulsine was affected by movement.At low speeds it was said to be like a big glowing bubble.But during fast manouvers this bubble shrunk to a dense and brightly glowing "ring" around the Repulsine.It basically explain how the added air intake cuase the the field around the Repulsine to shrink and intensify.The air needs to pass and is ionised while passing the glowing plasma bubble.This "drag" pulls the bubble closer to the hull and compresses it.Similar story when accelerating fast.Here the field is manipulated directly through the generators.At full capacity they create a compensation for the inner field while intensifying the hull polarity.The plasma is drawn closer and then directional impulse will have the maximum effect.Combined it allowed for the seemingly impossible operating qualities.

    Part 6.Anti-gravity!!??Some people still claim the Repulsine was some sort of anti-gravity craft or device.If that would have been the case then the Repulsine would not have had the requirements for the complex air outlet and intake system.We can not create anti-gravity.Same way we can not create anti-electricity or light.But like the above we can bend gravity to our will.If you see gravity as a visibile thing then you would see how things are affected by it like leaf by wind.And like a bright light we we would only be able to see what affects us most.You might have seen documentaries about some of our new technolgies that use magnetic fields, like the Hedron collider.But even a "simple" thing as the magnetron in your microwave utilise the effects harmonic fields to contain a ...

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    Part 6.Anti-gravity!!??Some people still claim the Repulsine was some sort of anti-gravity craft or device.If that would have been the case then the Repulsine would not have had the requirements for the complex air outlet and intake system.We can not create anti-gravity.Same way we can not create anti-electricity or light.But like the above we can bend gravity to our will.If you see gravity as a visibile thing then you would see how things are affected by it like leaf by wind.And like a bright light we we would only be able to see what affects us most.You might have seen documentaries about some of our new technolgies that use magnetic fields, like the Hedron collider.But even a "simple" thing as the magnetron in your microwave utilise the effects harmonic fields to contain a high energy field or impulse.The repulsine utilised a similar "simple" technique to create a lens like field that guides gravity around it.Like the perfect invisibility cloak just not for light....And surpisingly not really much energy was required either.Take the bad and over-simplyfied comparison of a ping pong ball in the outlet airsteam of your vacuum cleaner.The ball is held in place at the point where the air rushing aorund it stabilises it.If the airstream would not divert then the ball would travel along with like on a laser beam.The intersting thing with this childish approach is that the ball appears to be stable at the distance to the outlet even if the direction changes a bit.Only once gravity is stronger than the holding ofrce of the airstream the ball drops out.The Repulsine did the same thing.Difference was though that it had to create the "ball" first and that gravity is not contained into a narrow stream but omnidirectional from its center.As a perfect sphere the forces around the Repulsine are equal around the hull.What is left between the "poles" is compensated by the airstream.With highly compressed gravity field lines (forgive the term if you are a physicist!) even slight variations of the Repulsine's field will act like the wing of a plane.In one area the "speed" of the travelling field needs to change and the Repulsine is dragged into this direction.So, no anti-gravity, no violation of our known laws of physics.Just a way to exclude and object from a field of energy ;)

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  • Part 3.Free energy or such things?If we trust the reports then the Repulsine was capable of self sustaining motion one started and running.Similar to the "Forellenturbine" the claim was the energy comes from medium itself.And considering the heating and cooling capabilities claimed it makes sense.In a flying system however we need some sort of control.Imagine a sudden change in air pressure, like when going over a mountain range and the thing would go out of control....Some former Nazi documents claim that no combustion engines were used but instead a system of three motors and generators.Whether or not these motors and generators were one unit or independent is unclear though.According to some drawing they were located in the small domes protruding from the bottom.Electrical ...

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    Part 3.Free energy or such things?If we trust the reports then the Repulsine was capable of self sustaining motion one started and running.Similar to the "Forellenturbine" the claim was the energy comes from medium itself.And considering the heating and cooling capabilities claimed it makes sense.In a flying system however we need some sort of control.Imagine a sudden change in air pressure, like when going over a mountain range and the thing would go out of control....Some former Nazi documents claim that no combustion engines were used but instead a system of three motors and generators.Whether or not these motors and generators were one unit or independent is unclear though.According to some drawing they were located in the small domes protruding from the bottom.Electrical energy has to come from somewhere and mechanical energy from a motor needs to go somehwere.The location of these units allow for several options.Directly connected to the moving parts, being used as gyroscopic stabilizers, providing electricity for the on board systems...But considering the early designs there wouldn't be any other need for them but to start the rotation until it keeps running by itself.Battery start and starter motors if you like.The strong claims of plasma being created provide a source of energy that can be fed into the units so they indeed would act as stabilizers.Otherwise the domes wouldn't have to be that big, only a big counterweight or flywheel would require this design.At low speeds the gyroscopes can change the horizontal balance of the Replusine and allow for basic flight operations and stabilisation.

    Part 2.What made the Repulsine tick?If we look at available images or what other people found out on details then it is quite confusing at first.Ignoring all this and trying to see the machine in its full glory and with all parts at the right place changes the perspective.It is clear that it rotated but it did not rotate on the outer hull.Only the top cone did and in some claims a center ring between top and bottom half - I don't take this ring for granted as there is not evnough evidence to support this claim.Either way, if something rotates inside but not outside then we need some sort of compensation.Like a helicopter without tail rotor the Repulsine would otherwsie spin out of control - like the early cooling models did.The intakes in the upper cone have a dual purpose.Firstly they ...

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    Part 2.What made the Repulsine tick?If we look at available images or what other people found out on details then it is quite confusing at first.Ignoring all this and trying to see the machine in its full glory and with all parts at the right place changes the perspective.It is clear that it rotated but it did not rotate on the outer hull.Only the top cone did and in some claims a center ring between top and bottom half - I don't take this ring for granted as there is not evnough evidence to support this claim.Either way, if something rotates inside but not outside then we need some sort of compensation.Like a helicopter without tail rotor the Repulsine would otherwsie spin out of control - like the early cooling models did.The intakes in the upper cone have a dual purpose.Firstly they prepare the incoming air for the right spin direction.Secondly they act like an omnidirctional wind turbine.The later means that air moving around the cone would also add to the spinning motion.All that comes after spins in the same direction, so how can it be possible to compensate this?My theory on this goes like this:The nozzle outlets at the end of the inner and rotating part add to the spin by the direction.However, the fins in the section of the outer hull where this air passes through are orientated in the opposite direction.Like in a turbine or good ducted fan this does now two things:a. The hull is stabilised in its stationary position through the air going through the fins.b. The angles of nozzles and fins are aligned so that a high pressure zone is formed beween them.These two functions allow that the excess air can be directed into the inner hull.As part of the inner hull operates below outside air pressure a pulsating effect is created.Each time a nozzle passes from a fin gap to a fin body.The frequency of this pulsing equals the puising created by the wave discs but is out of phase by 180°.By adjusting the low pressure of the inner hull section the system is stabilised without any need for complex systems.As the amount of "vacuum" defines how much air can be taken in, both lift and rotational speed of the inner section can be controlled.

    Part 1.People have tried for a long time to even understand why the name Repulsine was selected for this great machine.So lets start with some history.Originally the Repulsine was intendet to be used as a heating or cooling device - depending on the way of operation.In one configuration it was able to cool down a quite big room full of people by 10° within a few minutes.In the other configuration it would increase the room temperature as quickly.Main aim was to provide a cheaper and cleaner alternative to wood or coal fired fireplaces and heaters.Gas was available but most homes did not have any connection anyways.During tests it became evident several times that the machine started to develop some sort of unwanted behaviour.One destroyed itself by spinning out of control despite the mo...

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    Part 1.People have tried for a long time to even understand why the name Repulsine was selected for this great machine.So lets start with some history.Originally the Repulsine was intendet to be used as a heating or cooling device - depending on the way of operation.In one configuration it was able to cool down a quite big room full of people by 10° within a few minutes.In the other configuration it would increase the room temperature as quickly.Main aim was to provide a cheaper and cleaner alternative to wood or coal fired fireplaces and heaters.Gas was available but most homes did not have any connection anyways.During tests it became evident several times that the machine started to develop some sort of unwanted behaviour.One destroyed itself by spinning out of control despite the motor already disconnected from power.Some others literally took off and went crashing through ceilings.These unwanted effects then became of interest to change the general design idea.Instead of the first real airconditioner it was transformed into a flying machine.

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  • Downunder35m commented on PeterR26's forum topic What to do if my tv won't turn on 25 days ago

    I could do an hour of guesswork now but something tells me that vital details might prevent that.Thinks, like brand and model, age, what options you have to check the power supply and capacitors on it...

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  • Downunder35m commented on Paphy's forum topic Atx power supply problem pleas help. 25 days ago

    Lots of ideas actually...Thes mods are for old PSU's, new model often have added checks on other voltage rails.Plus the green wire needs to stay connected for as long as you need power.The 10 Ohm resistor might not be enough, if no hassle then just try one or two break lights from a car or a 12V halogen light bulb on the 5V rail.

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  • Great idea but I have aluminium frames and from past experience know that anything that hold something properly will be next to impossible to remove.If in doubt I will have to remove once moving out and really can't use solvents or such as the carpet goes right to the window frames.Well, not that close but there is only a 2cm strip left....And with the panes already leaking in the frames I fear the foil will start to rattle in the wind LOL

    Insulation in old AU houses is a joke to say it nice.I already "fixed" the doors which had about 1cm of gap on the underside, should have realised by the constant stream of crawling insects coming in LOLMy prefered option would be like the polystyrene sheets as it is good and easy but like you said ends up really dark.If we have 4°C outside then you wouldn't want to sit too close to any window in my house.With 20° inside you are lucky to get 10° on the window panes.Friends already make jokes about it by placing their beer in front of the window, stating it will stay nice and cold there ROFLBut jokes aside, it is even worse in the summer.I have two identically sized bedrooms.One has the carport metal roof over it on the outside, the other gets the sun in sideways from about 2PM...

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    Insulation in old AU houses is a joke to say it nice.I already "fixed" the doors which had about 1cm of gap on the underside, should have realised by the constant stream of crawling insects coming in LOLMy prefered option would be like the polystyrene sheets as it is good and easy but like you said ends up really dark.If we have 4°C outside then you wouldn't want to sit too close to any window in my house.With 20° inside you are lucky to get 10° on the window panes.Friends already make jokes about it by placing their beer in front of the window, stating it will stay nice and cold there ROFLBut jokes aside, it is even worse in the summer.I have two identically sized bedrooms.One has the carport metal roof over it on the outside, the other gets the sun in sideways from about 2PM till sunset.With closed doors the second one heats up about 10° more despite being quite a bit warmer under the carport if there is little wind.And well, leaving a piece of choclate near the window means you get a brown puddle once the sun reaches it.As said, 3mm thick glass that is now close to 40 years old....I do have thick curtains on all windows and in the winter you can feel how cold they are and no curtian is perfect so the cold air still creeps and finds your feet...My landlord does not want to invest a cent in improvements, not even upgrading the 40 year old kitchen or bathroom.The government currently offers a 50% refund on solar panel installions and a 60% refund to upgrade to double pane windows - still not good enough for my landlord :(Putting some silicone on the outside to seal the glass is one thing but I really need something clear to cover the windows properly and improve the insulation rating of paper thin glass :(

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  • Downunder35m commented on tverma95's forum topic 3 Phase supply25 days ago

    My assumption is homework...

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  • Downunder35m commented on Jarib123's forum topic Material to retain heat25 days ago

    You do know though that a microwave does not produce heat?It heats mainly water molecules and materials that act similar at 2.4GHz.You would need a material that is fully translucent to WiFi but has a high insulation rating.I would start by putting insulation materials in the microwave so they cover a glass of water.Water needs to heat up as usual but the material around must neither get hot nor reflect microwaves.Most glass is fine, so maybe glass and glass or rock wool will do it for you...For the filling check what Seamster already suggested.Dry rice, corns and such heat up in the microwave and hold heat for a while.But the temps you seek might be well above what you can do with plant material.Some salts might work though.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Mpc1055's forum topic Optocoupler 4N3326 days ago

    I highly doubt the opotcoupler will be capable of switching your wire as they can only tolerate a few mA.You would need a suitable transistor to switch on and off the wire.Considering the on time I don't think you will have any problems with a small relay.

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  • Downunder35m commented on SumG1's forum topic Spring thaw drainage dc pump27 days ago

    You could also start by adding some drainage pipes in the ground.Have them run to the lowest part of your property or area in question.For the sensor I still say mechanical float switches work a treat.Similar story if you use two metal rods (preferably stainless) and some simple electronics - look for circuits in regards to bath tub leveland general water level alarms.Last but not least you can use capacitive sensors, just hand it in a dry spot above the water line and once the water comes to close it activates your pump.

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  • I had the used filter from work out drying, then for another hour at a bit over 60° just to be sure it is dry.If the scale does not lie to me then the new filter has a weight of 365grams.The one that got blocked after 3 days comes in a hefty 520grams.Means about 150grams of sediments in 3 days....Checked the weight again after work and after another 3 hours kept hot but no significant change on the scale, so it really was dry.With that my boss contacted our water supplier.Quite quickly we were told that based on our water consumption it would actually be a really low amount of sediments and that our filtration system might not be suited for the job.Quite rude too...Then we contacted the experts for our filtration system and presented our findings and concerns.Funny enough they stated th...

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    I had the used filter from work out drying, then for another hour at a bit over 60° just to be sure it is dry.If the scale does not lie to me then the new filter has a weight of 365grams.The one that got blocked after 3 days comes in a hefty 520grams.Means about 150grams of sediments in 3 days....Checked the weight again after work and after another 3 hours kept hot but no significant change on the scale, so it really was dry.With that my boss contacted our water supplier.Quite quickly we were told that based on our water consumption it would actually be a really low amount of sediments and that our filtration system might not be suited for the job.Quite rude too...Then we contacted the experts for our filtration system and presented our findings and concerns.Funny enough they stated the amount of sediments is unacceptable for any kind of commercial beverage filtration system.The model we have is still considered to be overrated for our usage.To make things worse we were told that in other areas they service directly (we do it ourself) they don't even see any sediments in the filter and usually not the pre-filter but the fine particle filters at the other end need replacement earlier.That sediments also block our fine filters prematurely was said to be a sign of very poor water quaity.Only option to prevent these ongoing costs and filter changes would be to upgrade to two stage filter system with automatic flush funtion - to be installed before our actual filters!!!My boss did not like that idea either so we are now seriously considering to involve the health department for an independt check and evaluation.

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  • If you go that route then you might be wasting more energy than what is used to charge your battery.For every half decent drone or battery pack you can get car chargers that run off 12V DC.

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  • Downunder35m commented on TylerPatrick's forum topic "Sunken living room" (joists?)4 weeks ago

    Firstly, at least in most area, you will need a permit for it.Although it is "just a floor" structural integrety and safety plays a role these days.The major problem of doing this in an existing house is that will be no support structure to hold the lowered floor.The few examples I have seen around here go somehow like this:Remove all boards on floor and ceiling.Add supports on the vertical beams below for the new floor beams.Add diagonal, short supports to prevent movement and warping.(these were basically just diagonal stubs going from the new support beams up to the existing and then straight down again to form a triangle)After that is becomes a standard job for plasterer and floormaker, maybe the electrician too.

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  • Wonders do seem to happen after all :)Today at work our water so badly colored that the girls preparing a bucket was told to do it again three times LOLAfter that it was finally acknowledged that we can not tolerate this for a business any longer.Several pictures were taken and next week my manager will contact our supplier and demand answers as well.As it turns out the ongoing pressure loss until the filter is blocked is also affecting operations as production times increase as a result.For my private connection I am still waiting on the promised call to inform me about their own findings on the matter.A more direct Email address to someone in the quality control department was given as well but I got no reply on my Email to there so far either.My neighbours either side of me today als...

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    Wonders do seem to happen after all :)Today at work our water so badly colored that the girls preparing a bucket was told to do it again three times LOLAfter that it was finally acknowledged that we can not tolerate this for a business any longer.Several pictures were taken and next week my manager will contact our supplier and demand answers as well.As it turns out the ongoing pressure loss until the filter is blocked is also affecting operations as production times increase as a result.For my private connection I am still waiting on the promised call to inform me about their own findings on the matter.A more direct Email address to someone in the quality control department was given as well but I got no reply on my Email to there so far either.My neighbours either side of me today also confirmed that their water is badly colored and appears cloudy.I suggested to call their hotline and to report a problem with the water.Both got the same answer:The water quality is above standards and we suggest you flush your lines or have a plumber inspect your pipes.What strikes on these responses is the advertising and promoting.I have no clue how many plumbers made good money from old ladies by doing really nothing and charging for it.If mud and sediment come into the meter then there is no way to eliminate it by flushing the pipes of the house, but what do I know...The next thing is the level of power here.I contacted several labratories to enquire on prices for a comprehensive water test.As I mentioned my tap water most told me directly that a test would not be required as my supplier would ensure the best quality by legal requirement anyway.And in either case the requested amount for testing 50ml of tap water is currently not on my budget.

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  • I assume contact problems.Take a good light and magnifiying glass to check the contacts, both for connectors and solder joints.A hairline usually means broken and requires resoldering.If the plug contacts don't look shiny then there might be a problem too.If in doubt check for continuity through the cable by testing from solder point to solder point.

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  • Downunder35m commented on darleen2009's forum topic Lexar flash stick/drive4 weeks ago

    Can you provide all the details please?Model and size of the stick,operating system used, what did you do when it failed, what exactly do you mean by "stopped flashing"?

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