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  • IkeB2 commented on tomatoskins's instructable Captive Ring Puzzle2 years ago
    Captive Ring Puzzle

    Nice! I gotta try this one! One thought about cutting the discs; I plan to select a hole saw with in ID of the proper disc size, cut a hole in a scrap piece of ply, then clamp the hardwood to the piece of plywood, remove the center drill bit from the hole saw, cut the hardwood to form one of the discs through the hole I just cut in the ply, reclamp and cut a second disc. That should save time in making the two pieces the same size and "perfectly" round.

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  • IkeB2 commented on mole125's instructable Quick and easy book safe/geocache container2 years ago
    Quick and easy book safe/geocache container

    No reason a square area couldn't be made by making the plywood holes rectangular, drilling a smaller hole in one of the corners and using a jigsaw to cut along the edge of the plywood hole. All remaining steps would still apply of course.

    Imagine my surprise and disappointment should I pick up such a book, start reading it, whilst becoming increasingly intrigued only to be balderdashed by the sudden appearance of a hidden treasure on the next page but one that has cut my intrigue short!

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  • IkeB2 commented on HomeRepairTutor 's instructable Soldering Quick Tips2 years ago
    Soldering Quick Tips

    Thanks for that tip! Agreed it's a frustrating experience when there's even a bit of water close to the joint. I typically use a shark connector for basement runs that can't be drained to a lower level but I'll have to try this next time!

    1. Agreed WRT to MAPP gas. Much better for heavy-duty jobs with much less heat conduction because job is done faster. More care must be taken not to burn paste before solder can sweat joint though.2. From a safety aspect, you should mention the danger of burning nearby joists etc. I use a piece of tin on the backside of the flame application to shield the flame from wood (or any other flammable members).Keep a squeezable water bottle handy in case charring can't be avoided. Or just use a sharkbite if too difficult to avoid charring. A bit more expensive but not as expensive as a fire!3. I love those pipe cutters that look like a cylinder with a slot cut in the side (sorry don't recall brand name). Just place over the pipe which fits into the slot, turn the cutter by twisting around t...

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    1. Agreed WRT to MAPP gas. Much better for heavy-duty jobs with much less heat conduction because job is done faster. More care must be taken not to burn paste before solder can sweat joint though.2. From a safety aspect, you should mention the danger of burning nearby joists etc. I use a piece of tin on the backside of the flame application to shield the flame from wood (or any other flammable members).Keep a squeezable water bottle handy in case charring can't be avoided. Or just use a sharkbite if too difficult to avoid charring. A bit more expensive but not as expensive as a fire!3. I love those pipe cutters that look like a cylinder with a slot cut in the side (sorry don't recall brand name). Just place over the pipe which fits into the slot, turn the cutter by twisting around the pipe. A few turns and presto! I have both the 1/2" and 3/4" version. Much easier to use in tight spaces.4. I use a separate de-burring tool, one that has a little cutter offset from rotating axis in the handle. A couple of turns and burr is gone. 5. Paste brush? What are you a sissy? :P Just a dab on my pinky and that does the inside (after removing oxide of course). I always prep the insides first (esp for assemblies that are done on the work table) and then outside with another finger dab, immediately then mating the joints so no contaminating dirt can inadvertently get picked up by the paste.

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