TheSuperSewcio.

What do you mean by that? What exactly do you want you skip?

Sorry but i can't help with that, i've never used this library. The code looks OK for me and the connections should be ok as well. Maybe try to find some examples using this specific library, it might help

You can do:#define expPin A0currentVal = analogRead(expPin); Or shorter:currentVal = analogRead(0);The GND should be connected to GND on Arduino board and VCC to 5V pin on Arduino.

You can cut them but it is better to just desolder them

What you want to do is either delete the existing sketch or just open my code as a new file (if i remember correctly it is just File -> Open). Then flash the Arduino with my program with the arrow key on the top

This potentiometer actually works quite nice. Arduino reads it's position with 1024 steps accuracy, which indeed creates some jumps, but i am mapping it to 51 steps which reduces all of them. I bought my from local store and it's lifespan is a lot longer than rotary encoder's.It has sliding parts inside but they are spring loaded and even if they wear out a bit they will still work. Encoders on the other hand have metal gear inside with piece of metal sliding(!) around it and it wears out a lot faster, i was forced once to buy a new mouse because of the broken wheel driving me mad when scrolling. The only time when i broke a potentiometer was when i put a screwdriver right through it (smal SMD one from stepper drivers).As for 3D printed parts you can just order them from the internet or...

This potentiometer actually works quite nice. Arduino reads it's position with 1024 steps accuracy, which indeed creates some jumps, but i am mapping it to 51 steps which reduces all of them. I bought my from local store and it's lifespan is a lot longer than rotary encoder's.It has sliding parts inside but they are spring loaded and even if they wear out a bit they will still work. Encoders on the other hand have metal gear inside with piece of metal sliding(!) around it and it wears out a lot faster, i was forced once to buy a new mouse because of the broken wheel driving me mad when scrolling. The only time when i broke a potentiometer was when i put a screwdriver right through it (smal SMD one from stepper drivers).As for 3D printed parts you can just order them from the internet or buy a cheap 3D printer from China for your garage.And of course, if you want to build it with encoder and no 3D printed parts you can find a lot of tutorials on how to do that on YouTube or even here on Instructables.I hope you soon will build whatever volume controller you like yourself!

That is true, i used lnear one. I wonder how audio taper would work, but i am not sure if Windows itself isn't working kinda like it. Maybe i will try that at some point.Thanks for a great idea!

Thanks!

In the HID-Project Arduino library you indeed can change the function to any key or even mouse movement. I believe that even multiple key combinations are possible but only with standard keyboard keys, you can't just add 200 new buttons :)

Looking forward for yours project!

For some reason it is just better for me to have min and max sound level defined and not only + and - volume.Thanks for your comment!

What file are you talking exactly about?

Does your SD reader have a 3,3V converter? My one had it built in and if it is the only thing different than mine it maight cause problems.

Using DC motors with encoders is indeed possible, in fact that is how normal office printers work because they are cheaper than stepper motors. I actually tried to use them in my project but there were some problems. DC motors usually have lower torque than steppers so you need to use some sort of transmission with them which means that they will spin quite fast. In my experiments with them Arduino UNO board was too slow to register all of the holes and motor was skipping steps. I even used Arduino MKR1000 with higher clock speed and then it kinda worked but it still wasn't perfect. If you have a way to attach the encoder after transmission (it will rotate slower; I couldn't do that because my encoder was permanently attached to the motor shaft) I believe it should work well. As for the...

Using DC motors with encoders is indeed possible, in fact that is how normal office printers work because they are cheaper than stepper motors. I actually tried to use them in my project but there were some problems. DC motors usually have lower torque than steppers so you need to use some sort of transmission with them which means that they will spin quite fast. In my experiments with them Arduino UNO board was too slow to register all of the holes and motor was skipping steps. I even used Arduino MKR1000 with higher clock speed and then it kinda worked but it still wasn't perfect. If you have a way to attach the encoder after transmission (it will rotate slower; I couldn't do that because my encoder was permanently attached to the motor shaft) I believe it should work well. As for the G-CODE, the implementation to the program is not hard at all.

Sorry but i don't have a link to them. I desoldered my resistors from some old RC controller PCB. You can find them on a lot of old electronic circuits, they have 103 or 1002 numbers printed on top.

I had printed them in PLA.The parts are indeed brittle, just don't overtighten the screws and you will be good. They don't have to be very robust at all because they carry only small forces.

I am glad to hear it!

Try to move all of the LCD libraries from C:\Program Files (x86) and from Documents to new folder. Than install the correct one (check some tutorials do do it properly). Check also your LCD's custom I2C number.I hope it will work eventually.

Basically make the plotter bigger (longer aluminium tubes and longer wires to motors). The electronics and program can stay intact. I don't thing max size was defined in the code, it just depends on your g-code.

1. This multipliters just worked gret with my camera, but any other value should also work. 2. If val was 1023 or 1024 the strobe effect will stop in some cases (for example time when led is off could be set to 0 or even less). * 5 is the same multiplites as in pot2.

Hi Nikus, is it hard to fly a drone?

It is still limited by a potentiometer.

It is step 12, basically go to Path and trace bitmap

1. Yes you can use Arduino Uno, pins are definde in the programm.2. Extract plotter.zip on your desktop, or wherever else, open Plotter4 folder and Plotter4.ino in your Arduino software. The rest of the sketches are tabs which can you switch to at the top of Arduino IDE.

Probably it is. But I will recommend using external power supply for the motors (9 or 12V) so they will have more power.Plotter update including this feature comming soon, I have also hacked my motors and now they are bipolar style motors, and I will be using my custom stepper motors drivers in the next version.

There will also be plotter update soon, program for stepper motors will change, I will add some bearings and change plotter drawing head.I am working on it right now and I will release this update as soon sa possible :)

Plotters with stronger stepper motors like NEMA17 can easily draw on walls. There are also special types of plotters for vertical surfaces only, just type 'wall plotters' and you will find them on the internet. The are using motors to go up and than force of gravitation to go down. There aren't any odd questions by the way :)

3D printers are much more complicated than this plotter. For printer you will need third axis to move it up and down and fourth 'axis' for extruder to push filament into nozzle. Than you have to melt it in 210 degrees Celsius. This causes lot of additional programming which ATMega328P won't handle (my 3D printer uses Arduino Mega).It will actually be easier to make diffrent project than changing this one.Thanks for support!

If one of X axis motors lost step (or I'd better say lot of steps, one or two won't do anything), than Y axis could stop moving. Consequences for drawing will be terrible.

Two motors on one axis works fine as long as they aren't losing steps. Than one side of Y axis could stop and other will still going - this will broke the drawing. You should also think more about endstops for each motor separately.

I have small rubber holding marker down, if you want to draw with pencil or pen you will have to use springs or something stronger because they need more force to draw.

You can download 3D parts and print them on your 3D printer on buy them on the internet, for example on 3D Hubs.The pen lift system will be upgraded soon, on my website that i'm wirking on now.

Oh sorry, i forgot to remove it. There was before an option to change drawig speeed but i have removed it because these motors are so slow anyway and there wasn't any reason to slow them down even more. I left it there so plotter won't print that there is unknown command 'F' in the g-code. Than i have also removed serial and gorgot about this case. Thanks for support :)

Thanks for your idea! I've changed my plotter header so now it can use any type of pencils, not only with 8mm diameter like before. I've tested some diffrent pens and that, in my opinion, is the best result. I've achieved it with the marker that is on the photo.There is centimeter ruler underneath for scale

Plotter just got featured!

my delta has 80mm/s limit, so it os not even 300%

Plotter ready!https://www.instructables.com/id/Drawing-Plotter/

Nice project!

Working on it right now!

Good project, but a bit too useless for me :)

Thanks!