As far as i remember 80cm Acrylic tube (2 cm diameter, should correct the description), but that might depent on the person. Then a 2mm sheet of clear acrylic (length of the tube*4cm if the lasercutter can cut this, otherwise shorter), a small piece of 3mm diffuse acrylic (5*5mm pieces per LED), and a bunch of WS2812b SMD LEDs (depending on the length). Thin silver wire for connections. I used at the end an Atmega (Attiny will also work) on a custom made board, but just a Arduino Mini should work fine (Housing might need adjustments). Then AA-battery holder for pcbs and the PCBs for the handle.
The acrylic is steong enough (well, depending on the weight), problem zones are the 3D-printed parts, especially the connection between acrylic and the 3D-printed part. I never trust it completly, but so far it never breakes (some problems with internal connections, but no stability issues, and that includes crahing the handle with full force against things while transporting it ^^).
... side note: I did now a simplified version (led stripes instead of SMD leds), standard battery holder and Microcontroller in the handle and so on, but it looks not as good as this one.
I used just a 5V2.1A power supply (more would be better, but for me it was sufficient). The maximum power would be for all LEDs bright white, with fading effects and non-white color i would guess that there should be far less than a quater of the max power in use at a time (I think i set them at the end to maximum brightness). Of course, if you want to put all LEDs on white and full power at a time a bigger power supply might be better, otherwise just use a regular USB power supply you have at hand and test it. Worst case you get weird effects for higher brightnesses, and then you can still switch to a bigger power supply :)
Regular size (5050), for smaller objects the other might be better
yes, seems to be correct, combining them on two opposite vertex will also work - the only reason but everthing together in the base (with indeed more wires going along the edges) was that i had more space there to hide connectors, with the flat wires between mirror and frame. Should have made more pictures while assembling (i always forget it), before glueing everything together. One minor thing: For a symmetric display connecting all DIN together will work, the only reason for putting everything in on row DOUT from one strip to the next DIN is more freedom for display. In an ongoing build i also connected just the Datalines.
Hehe, that was indeed the biggest problem with the cube. First a tried also to wire all stripes in a row side by side, which was a nightmare (and due to one burned out WS2812 didn't worked well ar all). At the end i took one 1m strip for each side, wrapped around one side (see image - hope that is understandable?) such that DIN meets DOUT again in one corner.There, you can solder the wire both on DIN, GND, and VCC on the beginning of the strip and a fourth cable on DOUT at the end of the strip. The wire is then glued on the outside of the frame such that all 6 wires from the side come together on one corner (where later the stand is). Which allows to check each strip independent, and connect VIN and VOUT of the strips later.
Uups, stl-files are attached, that's the easiest way. Otherwise: Its an Openscad file (which can be then exported to stl). Nice if you like designing 3D-design with simple programming and parametric designs (and its open source).
Infinity EarringsView Instructable »
MirrorClockView Instructable »
Well, additional instead of instead (OpenScad has the nice adavantage that you can easily adapt the size) - the one diffusor svg file needs rescaling, inkscape e.g. sees the size as pixel instead of mm
Infinity Icosahedron 2.0View Instructable »
Not final, but a first spoilerpicture ^^
Another SLOMO-FrameView Instructable »
did you use normal or (ultra)bright LEDs - there are different types out there, the normal ones are indeed not bright enough
Not sure if its still relevant: The Pi has some issues with real time I/O, thats why it is used instead of directly using the Pi I/Os, you will have the same problems with the second one.
Just a line laser, if you find one with is "eye safe" it will be better (also other color might be better), the used red line laser is just the best to get (we normally shop by watterott, but just check your electronic supplier if he has a diode line laser with as less power as possible)
Color-changing Laser Cut Je...View Instructable »
I don't think the cricut machine can handle a 2mm acrylic sheet, a milling machine will work (or, when i first read CuFan reply: A 3D printed version out of halfway transparent material might work, but will not look that great). With a laser cutter cutting and engraving is in minute range, making an individual design took far more time per participant.
Not the first oen who asked this question - and the answer is still make it yourself, that's the whole idea of this instructable ^^. And there is plenty of room for improvements to make a better one than this version ;-)
Sorry for the late answer: Should be the basic pi as username and raspberry as password
Yes, as far as i know Mario used it with the raspberry pi (needed some fixes first to get the camera running)
The Fabscan Pi hat is now available at watterott.com
Shouldn't be a problem, just enlarge the whole setup (well, better use now the "official" box design at fabscan.org, because it's simpler and smaller). And one moment we thought about making a person scanner out of it (completly useless because of laser and long scanning time) and a micro version for scanning tiny things. Only problem might be the camera lens. Try it out :-)
Sorry for the late answer: 3 in Parallel with a common resistor. Iknow, that's somethign what you shouldn't do , but in that case it was the easiest solution (series requieres a higher voltage than teh 3 mignon cells, and one resistor per led looks ugly (more wires))
Acrylic Description sheet w...View Instructable »
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