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The 550F big cousin of the 400F. Great bike well worth doing. You could even make money if you find the right buyer.
Nice work. I'm a great advocate of "if you can't make it original then make it better"I've restored/done up numerous old bikes, mostly british, none of them older than me though and many have been repurposed as cafe racers. That's partly because I love the style but also mudguards and body parts can be fabricated out of fibreglass etc and cost far less. In New Zealand we can get vehicles re-registered to go on the road but that involves a full inspection and engineering certificates for mechanical or structural changes like wheels, brakes or suspension. Parts are hard to get and expensive here especially if you add shipping hence lots of minor modifications. I've never made money on bikes but love doing it. That said, a Honda CBX400F that I'd owned for years ended up being shi...
Nice work. I'm a great advocate of "if you can't make it original then make it better"I've restored/done up numerous old bikes, mostly british, none of them older than me though and many have been repurposed as cafe racers. That's partly because I love the style but also mudguards and body parts can be fabricated out of fibreglass etc and cost far less. In New Zealand we can get vehicles re-registered to go on the road but that involves a full inspection and engineering certificates for mechanical or structural changes like wheels, brakes or suspension. Parts are hard to get and expensive here especially if you add shipping hence lots of minor modifications. I've never made money on bikes but love doing it. That said, a Honda CBX400F that I'd owned for years ended up being shipped back to Japan where a collector paid NZ$5000 for it even though it rattled and wasn't completely original. I'm currently "tarting up" my old Yamaha FJ1200 that I can no longer ride due to balance issues. Keep up the good work keeping those great old bikes on the road.
I note that you say the rear wheel alignment cannot be adjusted but on many vehicles particularly those with trailing arm suspension the wheels can be aligned to the body. Then the front wheels can be aligned. 3 ways as Brian says not just toe in. If the rear wheels are out the vehicle will end up"crabbing", driving slightly sideways and no front wheel alignment will fix that. Like you I like fix things myself but given the complexity and accuracy needed I leave this to the pros. It's amazing to watch too well worth the money just for the entertainment value.
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Thanks for your great work - very simple, I will use my old Android for my FJ1200. It's a pity I couldn't have done it with several bikes back in the 1970s including a Ducati 750 Sport that I never got back.
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Great angles and focal points. The low angles are the key to using the model in a real-life background. A friend just sent me these taken with a camera phone. There are no close by objects to upset the sense of scale with the Yamaha so the bike looks quite realistic - it's a 1/12 scale model. In the second picture the fence is too close so the Moto Guzzi looks a bit small.
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I think your idea is nuts :) I love it - it might even carry off as "industrial chic:
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Keeping rodents out, steel wool around plastic pipe works great but steel wool and copper pipe... not such a good idea because of the galvanic reaction if it gets the least bit of moisture (like condensation) on it. The steel wool will rust possibly giving trails of rust down the wall which might be fine if it's out of sight but could leave a mess inside a bathroom cabinet. Just a thought.
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Nice job! As someone pointed out already, female moulds are the way to go and can be reused - go into business! Ready made boxes are so expensive - on my previous bike, a Yamaha FJ1200, my Givi top box set me back over NZ$300 second hand with the mounting plate. I made the mounting brackets for it then I made side cases for under $50 each. I added a self-adhesive rubber door seal strips to keep them water-tight and allowed for extra thickness in the flange and lid set-up.
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A suggestion for painting small items like fuel tanks - rig up a makeshift spray booth around the area you are working in using old tarps or even just old bed sheets. It stops the overspray spreading all over your workshop. The pros will also probably tell you to spray in even strokes keeping the nozzle at the same angle and distance from the work to ensure you get even coverage.
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Fair point! 4"x2" is really 94x47mm when measured, nowhere near its nominal size of 100x50 It is quicker to say 4 by 2 and I still do sometimes but all cutting measurements for building in NZ are in mm - one number, no fractions, even if it is in the thousands. Room or building size is usually given in metres to 3 decimal places but take out the decimal point and it's mm. So simple and so 21st century ;)Incidentally if you have one of those fancy electronic measuring devices - does it do imperial or metric?
Great idea - I have a similar set up but with more cross rails set on edge to support the material and the lengths set flat, That way the board is nearly 50mm clear of the lengthways rails so you can cut across without risk of cutting into them. I usually allow about 5 to 10mm blade depth clear throught the material being cut to make sure it's cut clean through.I wouldn't worry about the Americans - they need to get out of the stone age and start using metrics on an everyday basis. I grew up with imperial but I can still do long division etc with it - but why, when metric is so much simpler. I still laugh about the time when you'd hear builders say something was four feet, two inches and 3 millimetres long.
Great looking handle! The first thing I thought of when I saw it was my old Estwing hammer that my dad gave me 40 years ago. It had the leather handle but that has now disintegrated. I am thinking this is the perfect solution to restore what was a very fine, tough as nails, well balanced hammer. Thanks for the inspiration.